The Easiest Place to Start: Jajangmyeon

And today’s dish sits at the very bottom of the difficulty scale: jajangmyeon (짜장면), the star of Korean-Chinese cuisine.

Korean Chinese food dates back to the early 1900s, and over more than a century it’s been localized so thoroughly that it has really become a Korean cuisine of its own. China has its own version of jajangmyeon, but it’s a completely different dish from what you’ll find in Korea—think of it the way Japanese ramen traces back to China but became something entirely its own.

Korean kids start eating jajangmyeon as early as two or three, and I can honestly say I’ve never met a child who dislikes it (my own son excepted). It’s about as universally crowd-pleasing and inoffensive as food gets. As for what it actually tastes like… that’s genuinely hard to put into words. It tastes like jajangmyeon.

When I was little—about 30 years ago—it was easy enough to come by, but still wasn’t an everyday food. It was the meal my grandparents would treat me to on special occasions, like starting or finishing a school year.

It was also the classic moving-day meal. These days you can get almost anything delivered in Korea, but back then it was one of the few dishes that would come to your door—so on a hectic moving day, lunch was always, without fail, jajangmyeon. It’s a real comfort-memory dish for me.

Lately the trend has shifted again: jajangmyeon has gone upmarket, made with fancier ingredients and priced to match. Sometimes I look at the price and think, *really?* The range is enormous. A long-running old-school place might still charge 7,000 won, while a more upscale or newly opened spot will run 12,000. The priciest I’ve ever seen was at a place called Mutan in COEX, going for 55,000 won—apparently it comes with steak and truffle. Personally, unless you’re a serious foodie, I think around 10,000 won is plenty.

Types of Jajangmyeon, and Its Great Rival: Jjamppong

So is jajangmyeon the only thing worth ordering at a Chinese restaurant? Not at all. As the name “Chinese cuisine” suggests, most places serve a huge variety of dishes—it just happens to be the most famous.

For years I only ever ordered plain jajangmyeon, but once I grew up and realized how many varieties there are, I worked my way through them and went through a serious stir-fried-jajang phase. Here’s the basic idea: regular jajangmyeon is noodles topped with a sauce of onion and vegetables stir-fried in black bean paste, then mixed together. The stir-fried kind (bokkeum-jjajang) is tossed with the noodles as it cooks, so the seasoning soaks in better and, to me, tastes even better. The catch is that many places only make it in portions for two or more, so these days I default to gan-jjajang.

The difference there comes down to whether water is added while cooking the sauce—I find gan-jjajang richer, so it’s my pick. My husband goes the other way: he prefers the soft onions of regular jjajang over the fresh, crisp bite of gan-jjajang, and if there’s a minced-meat version (uni-jjajang) on the menu, that’s his choice. Beyond those, there’s a seafood version with squid and shrimp, a spicy Sichuan-style one, a chili version, and more—so it’s worth picking one to suit your taste.

And then there’s the dish that stands shoulder to shoulder with jajangmyeon at every Chinese restaurant: jjamppong(짬뽕). Some people are jajangmyeon loyalists through and through, but a surprising number of us agonize over the same question before every order—jajangmyeon or jjamppong? I’m firmly in that camp.

When I’m eating jajangmyeon I start craving jjamppong, and when I’m eating jjamppong I’m convinced the black bean noodles would’ve been the better call… the same dilemma, every single time, ha. So many Koreans feel this way that there’s even a half-and-half order of both. Personally, though, splitting it in two somehow mutes the flavor of each, so I don’t recommend it.

These days I do order jjamppong instead fairly often. It’s a spicy noodle soup built around seafood—squid, mussels, shrimp and the like—but I lean heavily toward the beef versions, especially the one made with thin-sliced brisket. If you love a spicy noodle dish, I’d recommend jjamppong too—just know it isn’t quite as beginner-friendly as jajangmyeon.

*Tip:* At most places you can ask to swap the noodles for rice—jajangmyeon becomes jajang-bap, jjamppong becomes jjamppong-bap: noodles out, served over rice instead. It has its own devoted fans. And if you’re a big eater, you can usually pay a little extra for a larger portion of noodles (gopbaegi); my husband, who eats a lot, checks that box every time.

The Signature Sharing Dish: Tangsuyuk

When I go to a Chinese restaurant alone for lunch, I’ll usually just get a single dish and head out. But when a group gets together, the meal feels incomplete without tangsuyuk. Tangsuyuk(탕수육) is deep-fried pork served with a sweet-and-sour sauce. Occasionally we’ll order something else, like kkanpunggi, but nine times out of ten it’s tangsuyuk.

The usual group move is for everyone to pick their own noodle dish and then order a meat dish like tangsuyuk to share. Quality does vary—some places serve it long after frying, or with the meat cut too thin—so if you want to try it, I’d choose a restaurant that reviews specifically praise for its tangsuyuk.

Being such a signature dish, tangsuyuk even splits food-loving Koreans into two camps: the dippers and the pourers. The dippers say you should dip each piece so the batter stays crisp; the pourers argue that dipping is only necessary at places that can’t fry well, and that a restaurant confident in its tangsuyuk serves the sauce already poured on, because the batter won’t go soggy. Honestly, I don’t think it matters either way—but some Koreans really dislike having the sauce poured over everything, so if you’re sharing tangsuyuk with a Korean, it might be worth asking first.

Where to Eat

There are plenty of well-regarded Chinese restaurants, but I don’t think there’s any one place you absolutely have to go—a decently rated Chinese spot near you on Google Maps should do the job just fine. That said, if you’d rather seek out somewhere a little nicer, I’d suggest the Chai797 franchise, which takes a more upscale approach to Korean-Chinese food.

The jajangmyeon, jjamppong, and tangsuyuk in this post are from a restaurant called Junghwa Baekban (중화백반) in Gyodae, a district packed with offices. A Chinese restaurant that thrives in a busy business area is usually a safe bet—and sure enough, I had a genuinely delicious meal.

Then the country grew fast, and at some point jajangmyeon stopped being special. By the time I entered the workforce, Chinese food was a go-to for both team lunches and late-night overtime meals. The menu is varied enough that everyone can order what they want, the prices are reasonable, it’s cooked fast, and they deliver right to the office—pretty much ideal for busy office workers.

If you’re a foreigner who wants to try a wide range of Korean food—or someone who’s found that Korean food isn’t quite to your taste and is looking for something a little different—I really recommend giving Korean-style jajangmyeon and tangsuyuk a try at least once!

Seafood Restaurant List

• Junghwa Baekban (Seocho-gu)
• Chai797 (Jung-gu, Jongno-gu, Seodaemun-gu, Yeongdeungpo-gu, Seocho-gu, Gangnam-gu, Gwangjin-gu..)
• JU (Seocho-gu)

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TPE-SIN on Singapore Airlines Business Class (SQ881)

After enough lounge time, and a freshly showered toddler, we headed to the boarding gate. At Incheon, the lounges are spread out along the length of the terminal — east, central, and west — so you can usually pick the one closest to your gate. At Taoyuan, almost all the lounges and restaurants are clustered together on Level 4 in the middle of the terminal, so we had a long walk to the gate.

This was my first time on Singapore Airlines. SQ881, TPE-SIN, was operated by a two-year-old A350-900. Looking at the business class seats for the first time, the calm color palette, the embroidered cushions, and the overall finish gave the cabin a noticeably premium feel.

What surprised me was that the seats weren’t full flat. They were angled lie-flat, meaning the seat reclines back but not to a full 180 degrees, and the ottoman section to the side of each seat is shaped in a way that doesn’t actually let you slide your feet in once you’ve reclined. Even at full recline, the seat is just an angled position with no proper space to stretch your legs forward. A slightly awkward design.

For a flight under five hours, it wasn’t really a comfort problem. The seat itself was very comfortable, and the medium-haul time meant I didn’t need to fully lie down. But after assuming Singapore Airlines business would default to full-flat seats, the angled lie-flat was a small letdown for my first SQ experience.

Our son fell asleep during taxiing again. Once the seatbelt sign came off, a flight attendant came over, reclined his seat for him, and then checked his name against the manifest. The other airlines I’ve flown business with — Asiana and Thai Airways — addressed me as the generic “ma’am” or “Mrs.” Singapore Airlines knows your name and uses it. It’s a small detail, but the kind of thing that adds up to a more attentive overall experience.

I’ve found Asiana to be reliably friendly even as the rest of the in-flight product has slipped, and Thai Airways genuinely warm in how they handle passengers. I’d always been curious about what extra dimension a perennial top-of-the-rankings airline like Singapore Airlines actually offers, beyond friendliness. The answer, for me, was a sense of professionalism. The crew didn’t just feel friendly, they felt very polished and well-trained. Whether that’s the uniforms, the atmosphere of the cabin, or the way they carry themselves, the overall effect is that they seem genuinely good at what they do.

Other nice touches: in-flight Wi-Fi is free for business passengers throughout the flight, and the welcome service came with champagne and a hot towel — a small detail many airlines have quietly cut. Cabin amenities such as a hairbrush, earplugs, eye mask, socks, and slippers are available on request, though the actual amenity kit is reserved for flights longer than six hours.

There are a number of standout features of Singapore Airlines business class, but for me the biggest one is probably the food. The meal service came not long after takeoff. With Singapore Airlines business, you can either pick from the standard on-board menu or pre-order from the Book the Cook program, which has a separate menu and is worth looking at in advance.

Book the Cook options vary by departure airport. From Taipei, none of the Book the Cook items really jumped out at me, and the on-board menu had a Taiwanese Soy Sauce Braised Pork Belly I really wanted to try, so I skipped the pre-order.

That turned out to be a mistake. I was in the very last row of the business cabin, and by the time the cart reached me, two of the four on-board options — the Taiwanese Soy Sauce Braised Pork Belly and the Seafood Guanmiano Noodle Soup — were already sold out. The remaining options were beef and chicken. I picked the beef. If I’d known, I would have ordered through Book the Cook.

The smoked duck breast appetizer was excellent. Duck is hard to mess up, and the texture was nicely tender. Among the bread options, the garlic bread looked the way garlic bread is supposed to look, so I tried it and ended up finishing the whole thing despite already being full.

The beef main was closer to well-done than I usually like, so the meat itself was a touch overcooked for me, but the flavor was fine. What surprised me was the side vegetables. The bell peppers and broccoli were good, and the potatoes were genuinely excellent. I rarely think a side of vegetables on a plane is genuinely good. Singapore Airlines’ reputation for in-flight food is well-deserved. Dessert was a choice of fruit, cheese, or ice cream. I went with the fruit, which was just fruit. My husband had the strawberry cheesecake ice cream, and a single taste made me regret not getting it myself. Ice cream is rarely a wrong answer.

While I was eating, our son woke up from his nap, so I ordered a kids’ meal for him. It came with a main, fruit, and a snack. He ate only the fruit, refused to look at the chicken and rice, and started demanding the snack. He didn’t touch the main meal at all. I keep wondering when the day will come that he actually eats his in-flight meal.

After we finished, I ordered a Singapore Sling, Singapore’s signature cocktail and one I’d been curious to try. There’s a story that the bottled Singapore Sling served by Raffles Singapore (the cocktail’s birthplace) is the same drink served on Singapore Airlines flights. Looking back, the version on the plane did taste similar to the one I later had at Raffles’ Long Bar in person — though it could just as easily have been a placebo effect from knowing the story.

With my Sling, I browsed the in-flight entertainment for a while. Since my son was born I’ve barely been on a long flight, and my usual Asiana flights have such limited IFE that I’d mostly given up on watching anything in-flight, defaulting to the flight tracker or writing blog drafts. Singapore Airlines’ IFE was overwhelming in a good way. Movies from many countries, TV shows, a huge content library. I spent a while browsing before settling on Barbie. Korean subtitles aren’t a given on in-flight movies, but Singapore Airlines has many films that do include them, which made the flight a lot more enjoyable for me.

Our son watched two Pinkfong movies back to back. The funny part was that he refused to wear the headphones (he claims they’re scary), so he watched them entirely on mute, and still found something hysterical, giggling through the entire flight without bothering anyone.

Between the meal and one movie, the five hours to Singapore went by quickly. I’d barely slept the night before and was on what was basically a whole-day journey, but by the end I didn’t feel exhausted. The seat wasn’t full flat, but it’s still business class.

Arriving at Singapore Changi, I got my first taste of how streamlined the immigration process is. I’d filled out the SG Arrival Card in advance, and the automated gate process for adults was essentially instant. Our son required a brief manual check because of his age, but the whole thing was over in about a minute. Changi’s reputation for technology really lives up to itself.

Immigration moved so fast that I had to wait a while for our checked bag to come out. Once we’d collected it, it was around 10 p.m. We grabbed a Grab from the airport taxi stand and headed to the hotel.

We’d left home at 5 a.m. and arrived in Singapore at 10 p.m. — roughly 17 hours of travel for a destination that’s a 6-hour direct flight from Incheon. Adding 11 hours to a travel day just for an aircraft type is mildly absurd, but it was actually a fun day overall. I’d been worried our son would struggle with the long travel time, but he handled it well, and we started the trip in reasonably good shape.

A Failed Pre-Flight Visit to Jewel Changi

On our return day, our flight out was at 10 a.m., so we left the hotel around 6 and aimed to be at the airport three hours early. The trip had been 5 nights and 6 days, but because of the late arrival on day 1 and the early departure on day 6, we’d really only had 4 full days of sightseeing. It felt much too short.

The reason we’d left so early — three hours is a lot for Changi, which is famously efficient at immigration and check-in — was that I wanted time to see Jewel Changi before our flight.

I’d assumed Jewel was inside the airport. The kind of thing you’d visit after check-in, between security and the gate. Turns out, no. Jewel is a connected mall on the landside, not airside. Once you’ve checked in and gone through immigration, you can’t go back. If you want to see Jewel before flying out, you need to drop your bag, visit Jewel first, then go through immigration. My plan to check in, hit the lounge for breakfast, and then see Jewel didn’t work.

Jewel’s signature jungle dome and indoor waterfall were what I’d most wanted to see at Changi, so missing them was a real disappointment. The silver lining was that I had a five-hour layover in Singapore planned for September on the way to the Maldives. I’d see Jewel then. I packed up the disappointment and headed for the lounge.

SilverKris Lounge at Changi Terminal 3

Singapore again. Immigration was, again, more or less instant — about a one-minute wait. I love this part of flying through Changi.

Because the Jewel plan had fallen through, my lounge time was going to be much longer than I’d originally planned. SilverKris has locations in each Changi terminal, but apparently the Terminal 3 location is the newest and the largest.

The Terminal 3 SilverKris is split between a business lounge and a first class lounge. I went to the business side. The space inside splits into a left area and a right area. The left side has more food, far more seating, and a much bigger crowd. The right side is smaller, has less food, and is correspondingly quieter — the kind of place people go when they want a calm space to rest in. For breakfast, I claimed a spot on the busier side.

It was clearly peak breakfast time. The lounge is enormous, with a lot of seating, but there were almost no free spots, and it took me a while to find one.

The menu has the basics — yogurt, bread, ham, potatoes, laksa, dim sum, hard-boiled eggs, scrambled eggs, several hot dishes, fruit. Our son ate his usual rotation of hard-boiled egg and yogurt. I tried the laksa, which I’d been wanting to.

There’s a noodle station where you pick your noodles and toppings and they assemble it. The laksa was actually more substantial than I expected, with a thicker, richer broth than the one I’d had at Lau Pa Sat. The spice level was very mild, so I added one of the chilies from the topping selection, but it turned out to be a milder green chili that didn’t really change the flavor.

The rest of the food was solid across the board. The scrambled eggs in particular looked so good I couldn’t walk past them without trying some. After breakfast, we moved over to the quieter right-side space for the rest of our time.

The right-side space has its own smaller selection of food, including some dishes you don’t see on the main side — shakshuka, congee, things like that. The space is more compact and there’s less seating, but the seats are more widely spaced and there’s a window view of the planes, so it feels brighter and more open. There’s also a bar with staff. At the time of my visit, cocktails and alcohol were only served in the evening, but apparently that’s been expanded recently to 24/7. Next time, I’ll definitely have a cocktail there, the way I did at Incheon.

We spent the rest of the morning here — our son ate watermelon, my husband and I had a glass of wine each — and headed to the gate just as our son’s patience was running out. My first visit to the Terminal 3 SilverKris Business Lounge was a really good one.

SIN-TPE on Singapore Airlines Business Class (SQ872)

SQ872 from Singapore to Taipei was on the same A350-900 as the outbound, but on an older aircraft — eight years old this time, versus two. I’d even been assigned the same back-row business seat in the same layout, so the cabin felt very familiar.

After boarding I got my welcome champagne, and again, no amenity kit since the flight was under six hours — but slippers were already at the seat without needing to be requested. We were also given a small Mickey Mouse build-it toy as a kids’ gift. Our son had zero interest. He went straight for the IFE. I built the toy.

After takeoff, I got another champagne and a small bowl of nuts, and then it was straight into the meal service. Having been caught last time by the “back row + sold-out menu” problem, I’d pre-ordered through Book the Cook this time. From Singapore there are far more Book the Cook options than from Taipei, and choosing was hard. I ended up picking the Singapore-style prawn noodle soup. My husband chose the gyu yakiniku. Our son had the kids’ meal.

For bread, the garlic bread had been so good last time that I went with it again. The flight attendant also recommended a thin, dark, cracker-like bread topped with a subtle layer of cheddar, which turned out to be excellent — almost like something you’d serve as an appetizer with wine. The bread on Singapore Airlines is consistently good.

The shrimp salad came next, with the dressing applied at the seat. It had a noticeable cilantro note, so it might be a love-it-or-hate-it for some.

Then my main course: the prawn noodle soup. It was, simply, very good. The bowl came with shrimp and big pieces of pork — the kind of cut you’d find in bak kut teh — and while the pork was a bit chewy, I finished essentially everything, broth included. This was the best in-flight meal I’ve ever had. It tasted a little like a Korean instant noodle called Saewootangmyeon, with a slightly fiery, savory broth. I love noodles, and the heat level was just right. My husband’s gyu yakiniku was apparently just as good, which means we both came away very satisfied. If you fly Singapore Airlines business and have the option, pre-order through Book the Cook.

Dessert was a slight letdown. I’ve noticed this on Singapore Airlines before — dessert is the weakest part of the meal program. Book the Cook does have some dessert-forward options that I’d love to try sometime.

After the meal, I watched Moana 2 on the IFE, and we were at Taoyuan before I knew it.

For a 6-hour direct flight that could have been simple, I deliberately routed through Taipei just to try Singapore Airlines business class. From the SilverKris lounges to the actual flights, none of the extra time or expense felt wasted. My first
Singapore Airlines business class experience was only four hours each way, but it was enough to convince me I want to try a long-haul flight with them next.

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Star Alliance Lounges at Incheon Terminal 1

Incheon Terminal 1 has four lounges worth knowing about: the Asiana Business Lounge, Singapore Airlines’ SilverKris Lounge, the Matina Lounge, and the SkyHub Lounge.

If you like open, airy spaces, Asiana Lounge is the most spacious. If you’re there mainly for the food, Matina is the strongest pick. If you want a balanced experience of food and ambience, SilverKris is the move. And if you’re flying late at night or in the early morning, SkyHub matches that timing best.

Matina and SkyHub are both accessible via The Lounge Members access, a paid program, so they tend to get extremely crowded — with wait times to enter at most popular hours. If you’re flying Star Alliance business and have the choice between Asiana and SilverKris, I’d personally pick SilverKris.

SilverKris Lounge at Incheon operates on three time windows: 06:15-11:00, 13:45-16:25, and 08:50-23:30. The hours appear to be aligned with Singapore Airlines’ Incheon-Singapore flight schedule, so they occasionally shift depending on the day’s flights.

In terms of size, SilverKris is much smaller than the Asiana Lounge. But the food and drink quality is on a different level. The menu is varied, the food is consistently good, and there are dedicated staff for the bar and the coffee station, which makes for a more comfortable experience than the typical self-service setup. As a small bonus, SilverKris serves laksa and kaya toast — two staples of Singaporean cuisine — which always feels like a nice preview when you’re heading to Singapore.

Our son is a picky eater, so he only had bananas and milk that morning. My husband and I, on the other hand, had a full early breakfast. My favorite item on a previous visit had been the tuna tataki, but that had been replaced with salmon this time around — a small disappointment. We tried the shakshuka, sausages, chicken salad, and an Indian curry, all of which were good. There are a few Korean items on the menu as well for travelers who prefer something more familiar. The menu rotates periodically.

The cocktail list is one of the small pleasures of this lounge. There are a few Singapore Airlines-themed cocktails — the SilverKris Sling, the Kris Club — along with mocktails like the Kris Fizz and Kris Babe. I’ve been working through them on each visit. Last time I had the SilverKris Sling, which tasted very juice-forward. This time I tried the Kris Club, which I liked much better. And of course they serve the classic Singapore Sling, which is worth trying at least once.

While we were eating, I remembered something I’d been meaning to do: stop by the Asiana Lounge next door, possibly for the last time.

Asiana, a Star Alliance member, is being merged with Korean Air over a two-year transition that started in 2025. By 2026, Asiana is expected to move to Incheon Terminal 2, and its Star Alliance membership will end, which most likely means the Asiana Business Lounge in Terminal 1 will close along with it. Since our next trip is booked in Singapore Airlines economy, this felt like the last realistic chance to see the place before it disappears.

The Asiana Business Lounge has three sections — East, West, and Central — and the total space is genuinely vast. The downside is that all Star Alliance passengers are funneled here, so it’s also the most crowded, and the food is the weakest of the Terminal 1 lounges by some margin.

I first visited in 2023, and at the time I remember thinking, *is this really a business class lounge?* Two years later, the menu hasn’t really changed, and the quality has held flat. With the merger looming, I suspect they’ve stopped investing in it. The drink selection is decent but there’s no dedicated bar staff like at SilverKris. What it does have is the most seating variety, the best view of the planes outside, and the kind of open, airy feeling that the smaller lounges can’t really replicate.

So if I had to choose between the two, I’d still go with SilverKris. But walking through the Asiana Lounge knowing it’s probably about to disappear gave the visit a slightly bittersweet quality.

Incheon to Taipei on Asiana Business Class (OZ711, A380)

Once boarding time rolled around, we headed to the gate and I let our son watch the plane for a bit. The aircraft for Incheon to Taipei was an A380-800 — a four-engine, double-decker giant. It’s the kind of plane that burns so much fuel and needs such high passenger loads to break even that airlines have struggled to make it work, and it’s gradually being retired across most fleets after 2030. I’d never flown on a double-decker before, so I was honestly a little excited.

Asiana’s upper deck on this aircraft is split between Business Smartium and Economy. There are 66 business class seats in this configuration, which is generous. Asiana’s fleet skews older, and on most short and medium-haul routes you end up on an A330 with their “slide-style” recliner seats — the ones that tip backward at an angle rather than going truly flat. The A380, though, also serves long-haul routes to the US, so the seats on this flight were proper staggered fully-flat business seats.

After getting up at 5 a.m., our son fell asleep during taxiing. As soon as the seatbelt sign came off after takeoff, I reclined his seat fully so he could keep sleeping. Since he hadn’t eaten in the lounge, I’d been hoping he’d at least try the in-flight meal, but he was out cold for the entire flight.

I’d already overeaten at the lounge and was planning to skip the meal myself, but eel donburi was on the menu, so I decided to try it. The scallop salad was actually quite good. The eel donburi was decent without being memorable. The dessert looked nicer than it tasted. As business class meals go, it was on the underwhelming side, but for a two-hour flight it felt about right.

A two-hour flight in business class is mostly takeoff, meal, and prep for landing. There’s barely time to lie down. The Incheon to Taipei leg ended quickly. With so many business seats on this aircraft, the cabin felt a bit closer to premium economy than to a proper biz cabin. But the A380 itself was the experience I’d come for, and getting to fly it once before it disappears entirely was a small bonus.

EVA Infinity Lounge at Taoyuan Airport

On the return leg, our connection at Taipei Taoyuan was only about two hours, so we headed straight to the lounge.

Taiwan has three full-service carriers, which is unusually generous for a country its size: China Airlines (SkyTeam), EVA Air (Star Alliance), and Starlux (Oneworld). All three are well-regarded. Since I was flying Star Alliance, I went to EVA Air’s lounge.

EVA Air operates four lounges at Taoyuan, arranged by access tier.

The Garden is EVA’s top-tier lounge, reserved for Diamond cardholders in their Infinity MileageLands program. The Infinity is the business-class lounge — open to Royal Laurel, Premium Laurel, and Business Class passengers, as well as Star Alliance partners in First or Business class. The Star is for elite frequent flyers, including Gold cardholders in EVA’s own program and Star Alliance Gold members on partner airlines. The Club is for EVA’s Silver-tier cardholders.

For me, that meant The Infinity. All four lounges are conveniently located on Level 4 of Terminal 2, alongside the food court area, so finding it was easy.

Walking in, my first impression was honestly mild surprise — for a full-service airline’s business class lounge, it felt a little dated. And the location was strange. No windows facing the planes, just an inward-facing view of the airport interior from a portion of the seating. I’d expected the prime airport real estate that FSC lounges usually get. Instead, it felt closed-in on all sides, and the relatively tight seat spacing added to that feeling.

We weren’t particularly hungry — we’d eaten well on the Asiana flight — so I didn’t try most of the food. Our son hadn’t touched his in-flight meal, though, so we set him up for dinner here. The menu was actually more varied than I’d expected for such a tight space, with a solid range of Taiwanese dishes and a decent dessert spread.

He ate the Taiwanese-style braised pork over rice and beef noodle soup, along with the pickled daikon side, and ate enthusiastically — which is rare for him. Across our entire Singapore trip, the second-best meal he had was here at the EVA Infinity Lounge, after only the satay at Lau Pa Sat. He’s a kid who mostly survives on fruit and yogurt while traveling, so seeing him eat real food was a small win.

My husband and I weren’t hungry, but I did try the make-your-own bubble tea station, and I loved it. I really like bubble tea but find that ordering from a shop usually means committing to a full-sized drink I won’t finish. Being able to mix exactly the amount I wanted was perfect. There were also pavé chocolates on the dessert table that looked excellent — the kind of thing you’d pair with wine or coffee — though I was too full to enjoy them properly.

After his big dinner, our son had a yogurt, then a Häagen-Dazs ice cream, then a shower before the flight. I didn’t get a photo of the shower facilities, but I’ll note: even though EVA had more shower rooms than SilverKris, SilverKris’s were noticeably better in terms of design and comfort, particularly when bathing a child. The EVA staff, on the other hand, were attentive, circulating regularly to clean and maintain the facilities. The lounge is clearly well-managed even if the design feels a bit tired.

Overall, would I say I disliked the EVA Infinity Lounge? Not at all. The actual space is smaller than SilverKris, but SilverKris feels more open thanks to the windows and ceiling height. The shower count favors EVA, but the actual shower experience and the kid-friendliness favor SilverKris. The food menus are both varied enough that either choice would be fine. For a business-class lounge at a full-service airline, the EVA Infinity Lounge feels a little underwhelming, and a refresh would do it good. Then again, compared to Incheon’s neglected Asiana Lounge, it’s still in noticeably better shape.

Taipei to Incheon on Asiana Business Class (A330-300)

The aircraft for the return flight from Taipei to Incheon was a 10-year-old A330-300. The outbound had been the A380 with full-flat seats; this time we were on the slide-style recliner. I’d known going in that the A330 was the more likely aircraft for shorter routes, but I’d been hoping for another A380. A small disappointment.

The 2-2-2 seat layout meant our son and I sat together, and my husband took the seat behind us. Unfortunately, the passenger directly in front of our son turned out to be very sensitive, and we had a rough flight because of it. Our son wasn’t crying. He was watching cartoons relatively quietly. But he occasionally said things like “we’re going up!” during takeoff, or laughed too loudly at something on his screen, and the passenger in front of him visibly bristled every time.

I kept trying to keep him quiet, even handing him candy to slow the talking, but there’s only so much you can do with a small child on a two-hour flight. Toward the end I was just grateful it was a short flight. This was my son’s twelfth time on a plane and the first time we’d had this kind of situation, and I was so flustered in the moment that I didn’t think clearly. In retrospect, I should have asked the flight attendants to mediate.

I was still too full from the lounge to eat anything substantial, and the meal options for this short flight didn’t really appeal anyway. I left most of it untouched and had a small glass of wine. By the time we landed at Incheon I was completely drained — partly from the long routing, partly from the stress of the flight, and partly from sheer tiredness.

Final Thoughts on Asiana Business Class

For some context on my baseline: I’ve flown FSC business class about five times with Asiana — Jakarta-Incheon round-trip, Bangkok-Incheon one-way, and now Incheon-Taipei round-trip — and three times with foreign carriers, on Thai Airways from Incheon to Bangkok and Singapore Airlines from Taipei to Singapore round-trip. All of these are short to medium-haul, so my comparison set is limited. But even with that caveat, the gap between Asiana business class and what other carriers are doing on similar routes felt pretty clear by the end of this trip.

Business class as a category is rapidly evolving — with newer seats, better in-flight entertainment, and more thoughtful service across most airlines I’ve tried. Asiana feels increasingly stuck with older recliners, dated IFE, and a service experience that’s quietly getting worse. With the Korean Air merger on the horizon, this is most likely the last Asiana business class review I’ll ever write.

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Fairmont Singapore Signature Suite Review

Fairmont Singapore has a very different atmosphere from Sofitel Sentosa. Where Sofitel had been bright and resort-like, Fairmont feels more like an urban business hotel. The lobby has high ceilings and light-colored flooring, but the natural light is limited, so the dark wood columns, heavy furniture, and large dark-toned artwork on the walls give the space a quieter, more serious feel.

It doesn’t feel oppressive — just composed. The doormen wear neat tailored suits with caps that add a small touch of formality. The overall vibe felt more suited to travelers in Singapore for business than for sightseeing, and I mean that as a compliment.

My husband eventually came back with the backpack. Since we were already running late by then, we grabbed a quick breakfast first and did the proper check-in afterward. This was where I started revising my impressions of Singapore hotels. At Sofitel Sentosa we’d had almost no orientation during check-in or check-out — no one had told us where breakfast was, where to claim our welcome drink, how the shuttle ran, or anything else. At Fairmont, the receptionist walked us through everything carefully: the hotel facilities, the shared amenities with Swissôtel next door, the dining venues in the connected mall. She was friendly and helpful in a real way, not in a memorized-script way.

So I quietly adjusted my opinion. The problem hadn’t been Singapore. The problem had been Sofitel Sentosa.

By the time we got upstairs to the room, it was just before 10 a.m., which is genuinely remarkable for an early check-in. I was grateful to drop our bags off and head out for the day without dragging luggage along.

We’d booked the Signature Suite — 602 sq ft, with two balconies. The bedroom and living area aren’t divided by a wall, so it’s not a true two-room suite like the one we had at Sofitel, but the room is generous enough that the bed and the sofa-and-coffee-table corner are well separated. With our son asleep on the cot, my husband and I could still hang out at the other end of the room in the evenings without worrying about waking him.

The king bed was very comfortable. The cot was set up when we came back that night from the Zoo, which I appreciated. Our son was 32 months at the time, and I’d been a bit worried the cot might be too small, but he slept fine. I did notice, though, that we’re getting close to the end of the era where a hotel cot is a viable option for him. The next trip might be different.

The lounge area had a sofa, a coffee table, and a TV. Honestly, the sofa wasn’t anything special — it wasn’t one of those plush hotel sofas you sink into and don’t want to leave — but it was roomy and comfortable enough. Just a normal, decent living-room setup in a hotel room.

The bathroom was clean and well-organized, and there was a separate non-slip bath mat available, which made giving our son his bath much easier. Amenities were Le Labo Rose 31. I’m personally more of a Hinoki person, but Rose 31 is also lovely. Children’s amenities were prepared separately as well.

If I had to summarize the Signature Suite in one sentence, it would be that it’s a well-built, no-frills suite that does the basics very well. The interior finishes and furniture quality aren’t quite at the level of the Sofitel Sentosa Prestige Suite — Sofitel was, fairness aside, the more “design-y” room of the two — but the Fairmont suite was completely comfortable, spacious, and we never felt cramped or like we were missing anything.

What I really loved about the room, though, were the two balconies. We were in a corner suite on a high floor, which meant two large windows on different sides of the building, opening onto two completely different views. The room felt bigger than it actually was because of how much light and city came in through them.

One balcony looked out onto Marina Bay Sands, the War Memorial Park, the ArtScience Museum, and Esplanade — Theatres on the Bay. The other looked over CHIJMES and the National Museum of Singapore. Two distinct snapshots of the city from a single room, and they shifted dramatically between day and night. By day it was all clean architectural lines; after dark, Marina Bay Sands and the surrounding skyline lit up, and I kept finding myself wandering out onto whichever balcony I hadn’t checked in the last hour, just to look out.

A note for Korean readers who’ve been comparing the two: the conventional wisdom is that Swissôtel The Stamford has the better view, because Fairmont sits slightly behind it and a portion of the angle is technically blocked. That’s true. But I thought Fairmont’s view was more than enough. I’d recommend it without hesitation.

The Breakfast and Pool I Didn’t Get To

Fairmont shares its facilities with Swissôtel The Stamford, which means there are three breakfast venues available to guests — Prego, Clove, and Asian Market. I would have genuinely loved to try one each morning and compare them properly. I tried none of them.

On the first morning, my husband was off in Sentosa rescuing the backpack, so by the time he was back we were too pressed for time. The second morning we had a separate breakfast reservation at Raffles Singapore next door, which I’d booked in advance and didn’t want to skip. The third morning we were checking out before sunrise to catch our flight, so there was no chance there either. Three breakfast restaurants on offer, and I made it to none of them. A frustrating bit of bad scheduling.

What I did eat on that first hectic morning, while my husband was traveling back to Sentosa, was kaya toast at Toast Box in the basement of Raffles City Mall.

Raffles City connects directly to the hotel, but at that early hour almost nothing in the mall was open. The supermarket on the basement level (CS Fresh Mart) and Toast Box were the only signs of life. Since I’d been wanting to try kaya toast at some point on this trip anyway, and we needed to eat quickly before heading to the Zoo and Bird Paradise, I changed the plan: skip the hotel buffet, eat kaya toast.

I wasn’t really expecting much from it. Toast is toast, I’d thought. How much can really be done with two slices of bread.

It was much better than I’d expected. Crisp bread, kaya jam, a sliver of cold butter sandwiched in the middle, with a soft-boiled egg on the side to dip the toast into and a cup of coffee. The egg-dipping is what makes it. I’d assumed I wouldn’t finish the order — I’m not really a bread person and I rarely eat much in the morning — but I actually wished there had been a bit more of it.

Since coming home, I’ve started making kaya toast for myself fairly regularly. It’s become one of those quiet souvenirs from the trip. Most tourists will tell you Ya Kun Kaya Toast is the more famous version and Toast Box the second-most. I’d love to try Ya Kun on a future trip and see how it compares.

So, no Fairmont breakfast review from me. Just a kaya toast endorsement.

I also didn’t make it to the pool. Fairmont and Swissôtel share their pool deck, and from my balcony I could look right down on it. Two round pools, surrounded by tall walls. It’s not the kind of “rooftop infinity pool with a city skyline” experience you find at Marina Bay Sands — it’s enclosed, clearly designed for actual swimming and family use rather than for the photo.

On a different trip I’d have built in time for it. But Singapore has a lot to see, and traveling with a young child compresses your sightseeing hours in ways that are hard to undo. The pool just didn’t make the cut. Next time, longer trip, more pool time.

The Real Reason to Book: City Hall Location and Raffles City Mall

If I had to point to one single thing as Fairmont Singapore’s biggest strength, it’s the location. The hotel sits about a three-minute walk from City Hall MRT station, and City Hall is consistently the most-recommended area for Singapore accommodation. There’s a real reason for that.

Singapore is small and well-connected, so technically you can stay almost anywhere and still get around fine. But the City Hall area sits in a different category in terms of walkability. A lot of the city’s most-visited spots fall in that awkward zone where a taxi feels excessive but a walk in the heat feels a bit punishing — unless you’re starting from a place like this, in which case they all suddenly become a pleasant stroll.

And because Raffles City Mall is connected directly to the hotel, along with several other nearby malls full of cafés and restaurants, you always have an air-conditioned exit option whenever Singapore’s weather decides to win.

Heading south from the hotel, you can walk to St. Andrew’s Cathedral, the National Gallery Singapore, the Victoria Concert Hall, on toward Merlion Park, The Fullerton Hotel, and Lau Pa Sat, and even further to Chinatown if you push it.

Heading west, you can reach CHIJMES, the National Museum of Singapore, Fort Canning Park, Clarke Quay, and Boat Quay, with the option to loop back via The Fullerton and Merlion Park to make a full circuit.

Heading east, you’ll pass the Makansutra Gluttons Bay hawker centre, the Helix Bridge, the Singapore Flyer, and if you have the energy, the ArtScience Museum and Marina Bay Sands.

Heading north, you can walk through to Bugis Street, Arab Street, and Little India.

In every direction, there’s something landmark-worthy or visually interesting between you and your destination. Walking from A to B in this neighborhood isn’t really walking from A to B — the in-between is the tour. That was, more than anything else, what made Fairmont’s location feel so worthwhile. I’d happily stay here again on a future visit for the location alone.

Aside from walking, anyone visiting Singapore as a tourist has probably thought about taking the Big Bus at some point, and its main boarding point is at Suntec City, just east of the hotel. While picking up our tickets there, I noticed the basement food court was packed with locals — mostly office workers — rather than tourists. Curious about where they were eating, I went looking and ended up at Turkish Lezzet House, a Turkish restaurant my husband’s Turkish friend had recommended.

We had iskender kebab, kebab rice, and moussaka. Arab Street also has a stretch of Turkish restaurants, but the prices and atmosphere there are clearly geared toward tourists. Suntec City’s basement gave me the same kind of food at much more reasonable prices, with a more local feel. If you’re picking up Big Bus tickets at Suntec City, the basement food court is worth a look for lunch or dinner.

If Fairmont specifically isn’t available, the City Hall neighborhood has plenty of alternatives in different price ranges — Swissôtel The Stamford, Raffles, Carlton, Kempinski, Pullman, and others. Pick what fits your budget and travel style, but if at all possible, stay in this part of the city.

The other big upside of Fairmont is being directly connected to Raffles City Mall. Toast Box aside, the basement has a full food court with a wide range of cuisines, and the mall itself has plenty of restaurants, shops both luxury and otherwise, a TWG outlet (a classic Singapore souvenir), and a decently sized supermarket.

I picked up pre-cut fruit there a couple of times — mango of course, but also sugar-apple (sour-sop), which I’d been curious about and finally got to try. The supermarket is more expensive than FairPrice locations elsewhere in the city, but the convenience of having it directly attached to the hotel is hard to overstate. When you’ve been outside in 33-degree humidity all day with a tired toddler, the elevator-ride distance to a full mall starts to feel like a quiet kind of luxury.

Final Thoughts on Fairmont Singapore

I’d say my stay at Fairmont Singapore was probably the high point of our entire Singapore trip. Early check-in, friendly and attentive staff, a spacious suite with two balconies and views of two completely different Singapore skylines from the same room, a connected mall with everything we needed, and a location that made the city feel walkable in every direction. There wasn’t really a moment where I thought something was off.

In hindsight, splitting our stay between two hotels turned out to be the mistake. If we’d just been at Fairmont the whole time, we wouldn’t have lost half a day to a backpack rescue, and we wouldn’t have had the Sofitel disappointment hanging over our overall impression of the trip.

Normally I don’t really like to re-book hotels I’ve already stayed at — there’s so much else to try — but Fairmont Singapore is one I’d come back to without hesitation. I’d recommend it especially to people visiting Singapore for the first time, to families, or to anyone who wants a calm, well-located, well-run hotel to come back to after a long day.

If you’re choosing among Singapore’s 5-star hotels for your first visit, Fairmont Singapore would be my top recommendation — for the location, the Marina Bay views, and the connection to Raffles City Mall.

If you’re trying to decide between Fairmont, Swissôtel, Raffles, and the other City Hall area hotels, you’re not really going to make a bad choice. For me, Fairmont gave me everything I wanted from a Singapore hotel without anything I’d want to change.

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Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Check-In & The Prestige Suite Review

We spent our first night near Changi Airport at the Grand Mercure Singapore Roxy (a smooth, easy start to the trip, which I’ll write about separately). With a late checkout secured, we wrapped up some nearby sightseeing the next morning and headed to Sentosa — with our hotel booking confirmation in hand, since you need it to avoid paying the Sentosa entry fee by taxi.

Singapore is compact and traffic-light by design (the government tightly controls the number of vehicles on the road), so the ride was quick. As we crossed into Sentosa, I noticed the vibe shift immediately. The high-rises disappeared, replaced by lush tropical trees. It felt quiet, green, and genuinely different from the city we’d just left — which was kind of surprising, considering how close they are to each other.

The resort’s first impression? Legitimately impressive. The lobby isn’t enormous, but it has high ceilings and opens up beautifully onto a central courtyard — a stretch of manicured lawn, a fountain, and a sense of space that made the property feel much larger than it is. The black marble floors give it a quietly chic edge. That courtyard is the image I keep coming back to when I think of this place.

Then came check-in.

There was a large wedding party checking in ahead of us — every single one of them, at the single desk, with what appeared to be the only staff member available. No one came to assist. No temporary station opened up. We waited a long time. (I’d already had some unanswered emails to the resort before arrival, so this wasn’t a great sign.) Singapore is supposed to be one of the most efficient cities in the world. This corner of it had apparently missed the memo.

Once we finally got our keys and made our way to the room — which, I’ll note, is genuinely a journey from the lobby — we arrived at our Prestige Suite: 688 sq ft of separate bedroom and living room. I’d chosen a split-room suite deliberately, because our son goes to sleep around 8–9pm, which means our evenings essentially end at 7. Having a proper living space so we could eat snacks and decompress after he’s down was a non-negotiable.

The room itself was genuinely good. High ceilings, warm wood finishes, spacious without feeling cavernous, and — unlike some reviews I’d read beforehand — it didn’t feel dated to me. The design felt considered. The furniture worked. I was relieved.

The bedroom had a king bed, the pre-requested crib, a couch, and a TV — with a large floor-to-ceiling window overlooking… other people’s parked cars and foot traffic. Because we were on the ground floor. So the curtains stayed closed.

The living area had a much bigger sofa, a stylishly designed bar unit with a coffee machine and minibar, and a welcome fruit basket with a note. The bathroom was all mirrors — large ones over the sink, one by the bathtub, more on the cabinet doors — which made it feel simultaneously larger and slightly overwhelming. Amenities were Balmain.

Oh, and there was a separate set of kids’ amenities. More on that shortly.

Breakfast at Kwee Zeen

I’d seen reviews warning that Sofitel Singapore Sentosa’s breakfast wasn’t worth it. I went anyway, mostly because there’s genuinely nothing walkable nearby, and making a trip to the main island just for breakfast felt excessive.

After a good night’s sleep and stepping out of the room, I realized that check-in had included zero orientation. No mention of where breakfast was, what time it started, where anything was. I wandered toward the lobby and happened to spot the restaurant — Kwee Zeen — on my own.

There are indoor and outdoor seats. We chose outdoor, since it was a cloudy morning and didn’t feel too intense. The indoor section matched the lobby’s aesthetic well — cool, considered, consistent in style. The outdoor section felt like it had been appended as an afterthought. An odd contrast.

The buffet spread was… basic. Salads, bread, cold cuts, egg station, cereal, fruit. An outdoor crepe station and a noodle station. I tried the prawn noodle soup — it smelled amazing, but tasted surprisingly flat. The eggs were unremarkable. The bread selection was extensive, which would be great if you’re into bread. I’m not, particularly.

The one genuinely Singapore-specific touch I kept wishing for was kaya toast. Just kaya toast. That would have elevated the whole thing.

I’d used my Accor Plus membership for a 50% discount on breakfast, and our son ate free at his age, so the math worked out. Without that discount, I’m not sure it would feel justified. But — and this is worth noting — the atmosphere at breakfast was genuinely warm. Sofitel Singapore Sentosa draws a lot of families, and seeing so many young children running around made it easy and comfortable. Our son barely raised an eyebrow from anyone. That part was lovely.

After eating, I took a slow loop around the resort grounds before heading back to the room. Quiet, tree-lined paths, birdsong. The ambiance of the resort itself is genuinely peaceful.

The Pool: Deep, Beautiful, and Beer-Adjacent

We’d originally planned to take Sentosa’s tram to Siloso Beach, then head to VivoCity for lunch before coming back for an afternoon swim. Our son had other plans. The moment we were back in the room after breakfast, he started lobbying hard for the pool.

Since the afternoon sun in Singapore is intense and our son’s enthusiasm was at peak levels, we gave in and headed down early.

The pool was nearly empty that early in the morning. Cool at first, but Singapore’s heat takes care of that quickly — especially once the clouds cleared and the sun came out fully. The pool is a single, generous length that deepens toward the far end — up to 2.5 meters — with a lifeguard stationed accordingly.

(Side note: I was in the middle of freediving training at the time, working toward Level 2. Watching the deep end, I genuinely wished I’d brought my snorkel to practice duck dives. That far end is legitimately good for adults.)

On one side of the pool, there was a small station with complimentary kids’ goggles and life jackets — though everything was sized for older children, which didn’t quite work for our three-year-old. We made it work. He had a blast anyway.

Then my husband wanted a beer. App-based ordering opened at 10am. We waited, placed the order the moment it went live, and… nothing arrived for 30 minutes. There was no one to ask. Eventually our son’s lips started turning blue (time to get out), so I took him back to the room while my husband waited for the beer. He gave up, rejoined us in the room.

A few minutes later, the room phone rang. The beer was ready for delivery — almost exactly one hour after ordering. I still don’t know what happened. Did they brew it?

Beer-related mysteries aside, the pool was a highlight.

LEBAR & The Welcome Drink

Our original afternoon plan — the Sentosa tram and beach — had slipped away with the morning swim, so we pivoted. A nearby hawker center (Lau Pa Sat) had its Saturday Satay Street opening at 3pm. We’d go early, around 4pm, before the crowds.

Before that, we stopped at LEBAR — the resort’s bar — to use the Accor welcome drink perk. I chose sparkling wine; my husband chose beer (again, brave man). Our son sat down and was asleep within five minutes. Swimming will do that.

Since our son’s naps tend to run about an hour, we decided to linger. My husband ordered a carbonara (he loves it; this was his view of the menu), and with happy hour running, he got 1+1 on his beer. I used the time to catch up on our trip budget spreadsheet. It was, genuinely, a lovely hour.

The staff at LEBAR were the warmest we encountered during our entire stay. The setting — all marble surfaces, open on all sides, perfectly shaded — was breezy and comfortable even in the 2pm heat. This was the one space where everything clicked: good atmosphere, good service, good company (including one very efficiently napping toddler).

The Shuttle Bus Schedule & VivoCity

Getting in and out of Sentosa by taxi every time would add up fast. The resort runs a shuttle to VivoCity — the massive mall right at the Sentosa Gateway — with departures every 15–30 minutes, so even if you miss one, the wait isn’t long.

While waiting for the shuttle, we discovered the Doctor Fish pond tucked between the lobby and the bar. Tiny fish nibbling at your feet — our son was too nervous to participate, but watched with fascinated horror from a safe distance. The fish, I’ll note, were enormous. The biggest I’ve ever seen at one of these things.

VivoCity itself is well worth knowing about. It’s large, with a solid mix of shops and restaurants, and it connects directly to the MRT — so it becomes a natural hub for day trips. The FairPrice supermarket there is one of the larger locations I visited, and it was an excellent spot to pick up snacks, fruit, and groceries for the room. Mango, sliced and packaged, was SGD 4.70 — more than the SGD 5 for four packs I’d found at a hawker centre fruit stall, but noticeably better quality and presentation. Worth it.

Shuttle times are worth checking in advance — but once you’re in the rhythm, it’s a convenient and free way to move between Sentosa and the city.

Final Verdict: Is Sofitel Singapore Sentosa Worth It?

Sofitel Singapore Sentosa is a beautifully built resort. The architecture, the materials, the sense of space — it all suggests somewhere that was designed with care and genuine investment. The rooms are good. The grounds are peaceful. The pool is excellent for adults. LEBAR is a gem.

And yet. Would I come back? No. Would I recommend it? Not without significant caveats.

On Sentosa as a choice for Singapore: Unless you’re specifically there for Universal Studios, or you want a deliberate reset from the city, a hotel in Sentosa isn’t the obvious choice for a short Singapore trip. The beaches aren’t the kind you’d come to Southeast Asia for. It’s close to the main island, but it adds a logistical layer. If you want a quieter base with a bit of resort energy, a Sentosa hotel makes sense — but it’s a specific use case, not a default.

On Sofitel Singapore Sentosa specifically: The service was, frankly, not at the level I’d expect from a property of this caliber. The staff count seemed low for the resort’s size, and those who were present didn’t appear to be working from a consistent playbook. Check-in was slow and offered no orientation. Nobody told us where breakfast was, where to pick up welcome drinks, or how the shuttle worked. We had to figure everything out ourselves.

The beer-taking-an-hour episode. The “Okay.” response when I raised a legitimate concern. These things add up.

And then there was MyKids.

When booking, I’d spotted an add-on called “MyKids” and paid extra for it, assuming it was some kind of family package. I received no explanation of what it included at check-in. Midway through our stay, I went to the front desk to ask what the MyKids package actually was.

“It’s food-related,” I was told. And nothing else.

After our stay, I looked it up. The MyKids package includes: children’s meals (lunch, dinner, afternoon snacks), unlimited soft drinks and juice for kids throughout the day, unlimited Kids’ Club access at Villa Des Enfants, in-room movies, and welcome gifts. There was apparently a Kids’ Club on the property. I didn’t know. We didn’t use any of it. I received nothing — except the Balmain amenities for my son’s bath. When I raised this at the desk, the response was a single “Okay.”

We’re generally easygoing travelers. It takes a lot for us to feel genuinely disappointed in a hotel. Sofitel Singapore Sentosa managed it. The facilities were lovely; the experience around them was not. The Grand Mercure Singapore Roxy — a step down in category — delivered a noticeably better experience.

I’d love to return to Sentosa island someday. A longer trip, a proper resort stay, more time to actually be on the island.

Just not here.

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The Five Royal Palaces & Shrine of Seoul: A Complete Overview

Seoul has five royal palaces: Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, Changgyeonggung, Deoksugung, and Gyeonghuigung.

When I was young, all five looked pretty much the same to me—I couldn’t really tell them apart. But once I learned more about their history, I started noticing the differences. Let me break down each palace as briefly as possible:

Gyeongbokgung: The Heart of Joseon, The Primary Royal Palace

This was the first and main palace built by the Joseon Dynasty (a beopgung, or “primary palace”). It was designed to showcase the king’s authority and dignity—grand, orderly, and imposing.

Main Purpose: The official space for state ceremonies and where the king handled governmental affairs.

Changdeokgung: The Palace Kings Loved Most, Harmony with Nature

If Gyeongbokgung feels like a formal office space, Changdeokgung was more of a home—a place where kings actually lived and spent most of their time.

Main Purpose: When Gyeongbokgung was destroyed by fire, Changdeokgung served as the de facto primary palace for roughly 270 years.

What Sets It Apart: The palace was built following the natural terrain rather than flattening the land artificially. It also features Huwon (the Secret Garden), a masterpiece of traditional Korean landscaping. Highly recommended for nature lovers. Note: Separate reservation required for the Secret Garden.

Changgyeonggung: A Palace Built with Filial Devotion, A Living Space for Royalty

Built to house the royal family’s elders (like the Queen Dowager), this palace sits right next to Changdeokgung.

Main Purpose: Primarily used as a residential space for the royal family.

What Sets It Apart: It has a more intimate, feminine atmosphere compared to other palaces. It carries a painful history of being converted into a zoo during the Japanese occupation but has since been restored. Don’t miss the Great Greenhouse (Dae-onsil)—a Western-style glass structure. Personally, I found it especially beautiful during the nighttime opening, with all the lights on.

Deoksugung: Where Tradition Meets Modernity

Originally a royal residence, it was upgraded to a palace after the Imjin War (Japanese invasion of 1592). This is where Emperor Gojong declared the Korean Empire, signaling Korea’s ambition to become a modern nation.

Main Purpose: A center of diplomacy and politics during the late Joseon period and the Korean Empire era.

What Sets It Apart: Traditional Korean buildings coexist with Western stone architecture (Seokjojeon) in the same space. Seeing a Renaissance-style building inside a palace is quite a unique experience.

Gyeonghuigung: The Quiet Palace in the West

A secondary palace (ignung) built for the king to retreat to in emergencies or to rest.

What Sets It Apart: Most of it was destroyed during the Japanese occupation, and only a portion has been restored. It’s small but offers free admission, and since it sees fewer tourists, it’s a lovely spot for a peaceful stroll while appreciating traditional Korean architecture.

Jongmyo: The Sacred Shrine Where Joseon’s Spirits Rest

Many foreign visitors assume this is a royal tomb, but it’s actually a shrine—not a burial site.

What It Is: The kings’ bodies are buried in the royal tombs (wangneung) scattered across the mountains outside Seoul. Jongmyo, on the other hand, is where the spirit tablets (sinju)—wooden plaques representing the souls of deceased kings and queens—are enshrined. Think of it as Korea’s equivalent of a grand cathedral housing royal memorial tablets, or perhaps a Confucian Pantheon—though rather than religious worship, the focus here is on filial piety (hyo) and ancestral remembrance.

If the palaces represent spaces of life and politics, Jongmyo is a space of spirit and peace.

Note: Except on Saturdays, entry is typically limited to scheduled guided tours only, so be sure to check the tour times in advance.

Which Palace Should You Visit in Seoul?

If I had to recommend just one palace to someone visiting Korea for the first time, it would have to be Gyeongbokgung—the main palace.

If you’ve ever watched a Korean historical drama (sageuk), you’ve probably seen scenes where the king sits in the center while rows of officials stand on either side, responding in unison or presenting their cases. That setting is the main hall of a palace called Jeongjeon, with Gyeongbokgung’s Geunjeongjeon and Changdeokgung’s Injeongjeon being the most famous examples. Between the two, Gyeongbokgung is more grand and imposing—which is why it’s been featured in countless Korean films, historical dramas, and even the opening scene of Golden‘s music video by Huntrix, Netflix’s popular K-pop demon hunter show.

For all these reasons, Gyeongbokgung makes the most sense as a first recommendation. But if someone asked me which palace is my personal favorite, I’d say Changdeokgung without hesitation.

When you step inside Gyeongbokgung, it’s undeniably majestic—but there’s something rigid about it. Everything is sharp, orderly, almost severe. The palace was literally built on flat ground in a strict grid pattern, and apparently the kings found it psychologically stifling. Changdeokgung, on the other hand, was constructed along the natural slopes of the mountain, making it feel much cozier and more comfortable—which is why kings preferred to stay there.

If Gyeongbokgung is the “official headquarters,” then Changdeokgung is the “real home and office” where kings actually ate, slept, and worked. Kings loved Changdeokgung with its beautiful gardens far more than the rigid Gyeongbokgung—and honestly, I feel the same way. I once visited Changdeokgung during a special spring opening when all the doors and windows were left open, and the palace surrounded by spring flowers was absolutely breathtaking. (For some reason, I don’t have a single photo left from that day ) The Secret Garden is the real highlight of Changdeokgung—it requires a separate reservation, but if you’re already visiting the palace, I highly recommend bundling it together.

Hanbok Rental: The Free Entry Perk

Except for Changgyeonggung, all palaces charge a small admission fee—but if you’re wearing hanbok (traditional Korean attire), entry is free.

I personally find hanbok absolutely beautiful, but the truth is, Koreans rarely wear it in daily life outside of childhood or during Seollal (Lunar New Year), the biggest holiday in Korea. After childhood, you might wear it at your wedding—maybe. Even that’s becoming less common because rental fees are so expensive. That’s why when they first announced the “free admission for hanbok wearers” policy, I thought it was a brilliant idea.

Hanbok rental shops started popping up around every palace, and as different styles emerged—from traditional hanbok to saenghwal hanbok (everyday hanbok) and gaeryang hanbok (modernized hanbok)—the palaces became the best place to spot people in hanbok, whether Korean or foreign.

But of course, with the good comes the not-so-good. Hanbok has evolved through many eras and continues to change today, so I can’t outright say anything is “wrong.” But sometimes I see people wearing hanbok that looks so cheap—presumably because rental shops are cutting costs to stay profitable—that it barely resembles hanbok at all.

What I consider classic women’s hanbok in dramas:

To me, traditional hanbok (not saenghwal or gaeryang styles) means a slightly shiny fabric like gongdan (silk satin) with soft, elegant colors. Legitimate hanbok specialty shops charge quite a bit, so I understand that tourist-area rental shops have to compromise on fabric quality.

Traditional hanbok is worn long enough that your feet are just barely visible. But rental shops probably shorten the skirts to prevent the hemlines from wearing out too quickly. I can accept seeing shoes or feet, but I’ve often spotted skirts hiked up to mid-calf, with the inner pants (sokbaji) showing as people walk. Add some never-before-seen glittery gold patterns that look like they were painted on with craft glue, and honestly? It starts to feel like something other than hanbok entirely.

Visit a hanbok expo and you’ll see constantly evolving designs—new patterns, new styles, even suit-like hanbok. So who am I to say what’s “correct”? But in my mind, the essence of hanbok lies in its understated elegance, so I wanted to share my thoughts.

My color combination recommendations for achieving that classic hanbok look:

• For children: Bright primary colors on the skirt or colorful saekdong (rainbow-striped) jeogori (jacket) are perfect—playful and cheerful.
• For young adults: Pastel color combinations, or pairing one bold primary color (either skirt or jeogori) with a very soft, muted shade for the other piece. This creates a gentle, graceful look.
• For older adults: Muted, subtle color combinations, or a dark-toned skirt (like dark green or indigo) paired with a bright but low-saturation jeogori. This gives off a dignified, elegant, and sophisticated vibe.

Color combinations are ultimately a matter of personal taste, but generally I’d recommend: either both pieces in soft, muted tones, or if you use one dark or bold color, balance it with a light, subtle shade on the other.

If there are patterns, I prefer designs where the pattern color is similar to the garment’s base color—so the pattern doesn’t stand out from a distance but rather feels integrated with the hanbok. Royal hanbok often features elaborate patterns, but even those tend to complement rather than clash with the fabric colors.

My Personal Hanbok Photo Shoot Experience at Gyeongbokgung

Just before my son’s first birthday (*dol*), we rented hanbok and had a photo shoot at Gyeongbokgung.

We dressed our son in a *seja* (crown prince) outfit, and since he was the star, my husband and I chose colors that would complement him without stealing the spotlight—recommended by the shop staff. I don’t usually wear purple and wasn’t sure if it would suit me, but I ended up really liking it. And seeing the photos taken inside Gyeongbokgung made me love it even more.

Since my son’s birthday is in July, we did the shoot in mid-June… and with hanbok fabric being what it is, it was *scorching* hot. Between the blazing sun, holding the baby, and constantly trying to make him smile for about an hour and a half, we were absolutely exhausted. My husband, who really doesn’t handle heat well, had an especially rough time.

By the time the shoot ended, our son had completely passed out. After returning the hanbok, we were walking back when I spotted a place called *Dasaria*—an outdoor skewer bar. We parked the stroller and stopped for a drink. I will *never* forget that ice-cold draft beer. It was pure salvation.

Because this wasn’t just a casual visit—we had scheduled the day specifically for a professional photo shoot—it was more tiring than usual. But now it’s become such a precious memory. The hanbok was beautiful, the photos turned out amazing, and I’m already thinking about doing it again in autumn. The shop where I rented hanbok is called **Geumjundang (금준당)**. Their Instagram account has tons of gorgeous hanbok color combinations, so if you’re planning to rent hanbok or just curious, definitely check it out for inspiration!

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Flight Review: Incheon to Singapore (SQ605)

Our aircraft was an A350-900, 6 years old. It was a Wednesday, so I hoped for some empty seats — no such luck. Completely full.

Our son was exhausted from the late hour and fell asleep during taxiing. Shortly after takeoff, the meal service began. I’d wondered when they’d serve food on a midnight departure arriving at 5 AM — turns out, right away. The choices were beef or Korean kimchi fried rice. I ordered the kimchi fried rice, but it was just okay, so I only ate a bit. The in-flight meal on the Singapore to Incheon return flight was japchae rice, and it was delicious.

Browsing the in-flight entertainment, I was reminded how impressive Singapore Airlines’ selection is — tons of movies and shows. Plus, KrisFlyer members get free Wi-Fi. The in-flight experience really is top-notch. If it had been a daytime flight, I would’ve watched a movie, but I was too tired. I just checked which terminal we needed for our Malé connection and went to sleep.

Red-eye flights feel like time passes quickly when you sleep through them. We arrived at Singapore Changi Airport before 5 AM, a bit earlier than scheduled. Groggy and exhausted, but there was something I really wanted to see — the waterfall at Jewel Changi!

On my previous Singapore trip, we had an early morning departure and couldn’t visit Jewel. It was one of the things I’d been most looking forward to, so missing it was a real disappointment. This time, with a 5.5-hour layover, I was determined to see it.

There was one problem with this plan. Google Maps shows Jewel Changi as “open 24 hours,” so I naively assumed everything would be operating. But Jewel is essentially a shopping mall attached to the airport — technically outside the terminal — and at 5 AM, nothing was open. Only a luggage storage counter. I went to check the waterfall anyway, and sure enough… the unlit, empty waterfall sat in complete silence. I’d even filled out an SG Arrival Card and cleared immigration for nothing. With nothing to do at Jewel and nothing happening at the airport that early, we just went back inside to find a lounge.

I finally got to see the Jewel waterfall on our return trip from the Maldives, catching it just before closing time — barely 20 minutes. Next time I’m in Singapore or transiting through, I really want to see Jewel during the day.

Changi Airport Lounge Guide (Priority Pass / The Lounge Members)

Terminal 1

• Marhaba Lounge: PP, The Lounge Members (24hr, showers available)
• Plaza Premium Lounge: PP, The Lounge Members (24hr, good food quality)
• SATS Premier Lounge: PP (24hr)

Terminal 2

• SATS Premier Lounge: PP, The Lounge Members (24hr, showers available)
• Ambassador Transit Lounge: PP, The Lounge Members (24hr, showers available)

Terminal 3

• SATS Premier Lounge: PP (24hr) Check app before entry as partnerships may change
• Marhaba Lounge: PP, The Lounge Members (24hr)
• Ambassador Transit Lounge: PP, The Lounge Members (24hr)

Terminal 4

Blossom Lounge: PP, The Lounge Members (24hr, jointly operated by SATS and Plaza Premium)

Terminal 4 requires shuttle bus from other terminals and has a separate duty-free zone. Recommended only for T4 departures.

SATS Premier Lounge Review (Terminal 2)

Changi Airport has 4 terminals, with Terminals 1-3 freely accessible via a circulating train. Walking from Terminal 1 to 2 is also doable. With our long layover, we didn’t necessarily need to use the Terminal 2 lounge, but at the time, I assumed Changi would be like Incheon, where Terminals 1 and 2 are far apart and require a bus. So I automatically thought we should use Terminal 2’s lounge.

Since our Singapore-Malé flight (SQ432) departed from Terminal 2, we chose between SATS Premier Lounge and Ambassador Transit Lounge. We picked SATS — I can’t remember why.

The SATS lounge was consistently crowded regardless of the hour. Exhausted from the early morning, I grabbed a coffee to wake up and got breakfast for my son, who’d missed the in-flight meal.

The food selection wasn’t extensive: bread, fruit, salad, cereal, plus a few hot options like curry, noodles, potatoes, and meatballs. There was also self-serve laksa.

I’d had amazing laksa during my Singapore trip and wanted to try it again, but this wasn’t quite the same as that unforgettable bowl from Lau Pa Sat. After a leisurely breakfast, we still had hours to kill. I wanted to nap on the sofa, but the SATS lounge chairs have low backs — really uncomfortable for sleeping while seated.

I tried getting my son to sleep on the sofa too, but he was too uncomfortable. He kept saying he was tired but couldn’t fall asleep. I even grabbed an airport trolley thinking he could sleep there, but that didn’t work either. He’d eaten, looked around at everything, but couldn’t sleep and was getting bored. So I deployed the emergency tablet cartoons earlier than planned. Thankfully, it worked, and we survived the long layover. A 5.5-hour airport wait with a toddler is definitely pushing it.

Having a lounge helped us survive the early morning hours, but those low-backed chairs made napping difficult. On our return trip, we used the SATS lounge again and tried the showers — they were dim, cramped, and honestly the worst lounge showers I’ve ever seen.

I later learned that the other Terminal 2 lounge, Ambassador Transit Lounge, has higher-backed chairs better for resting and much nicer shower facilities. The food seems similar. The Lounge app says both charge for children over 2, but some blogs mentioned Ambassador Transit is free for children under 6.

If I ever need a Terminal 2 lounge again, I’ll definitely choose Ambassador Transit over SATS. And with a long layover, since moving between terminals isn’t difficult, I might just go to a different terminal entirely. Based on reviews: Terminal 1’s Plaza Premium, Terminal 2’s Ambassador Transit, and Terminal 3’s SATS seem to be the best options.

Finally, boarding time approached, and we headed to the gate for our 10:50 AM flight to the Maldives.

Flight Review: Singapore to Malé (SQ432)

Time to actually go to the Maldives. The Singapore-Malé 10:50 AM flight (SQ432) was also an A350-900, 7 years old. Arriving at the gate, I could immediately tell — packed again. People of all nationalities gathered together. True to the Maldives’ honeymoon reputation, there were far more couples than families. I’d hoped for some empty seats, but no chance — completely full.

Singapore to Malé is 4.5 hours. My son fell asleep again during taxiing — probably the effect of being up since 5 AM.

Like before, the meal came shortly after takeoff. For the first time in my life, I chose fish for an airplane meal, and it was surprisingly good — it somewhat shattered my prejudice against fish as an in-flight option. While eating lunch, the clouds outside the window were so beautiful I had to take photos. The Maldives can have sunny days even in the rainy season and rainy days in the dry season, but September — when I visited — is technically the rainy low season. Seeing such gorgeous clouds on the way made me hopeful for clear weather throughout our trip.

I watched the live-action Lilo & Stitch movie on the in-flight entertainment, and before I knew it — we’d arrived! Malé Airport! The airport is so small that planes don’t connect directly to the terminal. We descended stairs from the aircraft and took a bus.

After immigration and baggage inspection (the Maldives is Islamic, so alcohol is prohibited), we exited to find dozens of resort staff holding name signs. We just needed to find the Cora Cora Maldives representative, and from there, everything would be handled for us. The real vacation was about to begin.

Final Thoughts

Without direct flights, I’d tried to maximize vacation time by booking a post-work overnight departure: 6 hours of flying, an early-morning layover, then another 4.5-hour flight. Including travel to the airport and waiting at Incheon, nearly 21 hours had passed. The Maldives is that far. Exhausted from just traveling, I thought, “I could never do this again.”

But after just 4 nights at the resort, I now constantly find myself wanting to go back. Maybe not every year, but once every three years would be wonderful.

Singapore Airlines takes slightly longer than Sri Lankan Airlines to reach the Maldives from Korea, but it’s still shorter than other options — that’s why I chose it. Maybe my expectations were too high after an amazing (but brief) business class experience? The economy seat pitch felt narrower than expected, which was a bit disappointing. Then again, without that business class comparison, I probably would’ve felt differently.

Objectively compared to other full-service carriers, the crew service is excellent and the food is decent. Free Wi-Fi and an impressive entertainment selection make the in-flight experience genuinely positive. With Asiana joining Korean Air and leaving Star Alliance sometime in 2026, maybe it’s time to get better acquainted with Singapore Airlines.

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Why Winter Bangeo-Hoe Is So Popular

Peak Fat Content

Yellowtail accumulates fat as water temperatures drop between November and February. This gives winter yellowtail a rich, savory depth that rivals mackerel or tuna.

Different Cuts, Different Experiences

The belly, mid-section, and back each have distinct flavors and textures. The belly of a large winter yellowtail is famous for its melt-in-your-mouth quality.

Dramatic Seasonal Difference

Spring and summer yellowtail tastes mild and unremarkable, but winter yellowtail sees a dramatic upgrade in density and flavor. There’s a saying: “You can’t beat winter bangeo-hoe.”

Bigger Is Better

Yellowtail develops more fat as it grows larger. In winter, fish over 6kg are commonly caught, making the hoe exceptional.

Cultural Event Status

Every winter, social media, and food blogs spotlight “bangeo-hoe season,” creating a natural trend. “Gotta have bangeo-hoe in winter” has become part of Korea’s seasonal food culture.

Versatile Preparation

Beyond hoe, yellowtail shines as sushi, grilled, or in hot pot. Torched yellowtail sushi is a particular winter favorite.

The sweet spot is roughly November through February, but I personally recommend December to January — when it’s cold enough to make you say, “Wow, it’s really freezing out there.”

Where to Eat: Local Hoe Restaurants (횟집)

The most accessible option is your neighborhood hoe restaurant (hoejip). You can find one in almost any area, and if the place does decent business, they’ll likely carry yellowtail in winter. For after-work meetups, convenience matters, so I usually pick a busy spot near the meeting place or my home.

Pro tip: Go where there’s a crowd. Beyond the skill in aging and slicing fish, yellowtail is a large fish that tastes better when it’s big. Busy restaurants go through inventory quickly, meaning fresher, larger fish. Quiet places might serve yellowtail that’s been sitting in the fridge too long.

Recently, I met friends near their place at a restaurant famous for bangeo-hoe. Even on a weekday evening, we had to wait. The place had a 150-minute time limit due to demand — staff would give you a heads-up as time ran out.

We ordered via tablet at our table. Three of us, medium size — easy choice.

Like most hoe restaurants, various side dishes arrived first. This place, Honggildong Hoesusean, was pretty standard. Some places overwhelm you with banchan, but I’ve noticed those sometimes skimp on the actual fish. So I don’t automatically celebrate a mountain of side dishes.

Among the banchan, I spotted beondegi (silkworm pupae) and dasulgi (freshwater snails) for the first time in ages. These were common street snacks when I was a kid — maybe 100 or 200 won for a paper cup. I don’t eat them anymore, not because of taste but… let’s just say once you know what they are, the visual is harder to ignore. Many Koreans can’t eat beondegi either. One friend at our table, though, got nostalgic and happily finished the entire portion alone.

Then came corn cheese — that reliable banchan that never disappoints. Canned corn with mayo and a bit of cheese, baked until bubbly. Simple, impossible to dislike, and my childhood favorite at hoe restaurants.

After some chatting, the bangeo-hoe arrived. Medium size for three people, 75,000 won. The presentation was stunning. Large yellowtail means you get a variety of cuts, and this platter delivered — you could see how richly marbled the fish was just by looking.

There’s no single “correct” way to eat bangeo-hoe. Some wrap it in seaweed like tuna, and dipping sauces range from wasabi-soy to ssamjang (fermented bean paste) to chogochujang (sweet-spicy vinegar sauce). I personally love wrapping it in perilla leaves with ssamjang. Perilla has a strong, distinctive aroma that some people find off-putting, but it pairs beautifully with fatty fish. One piece of fresh yellowtail on a perilla leaf, a dab of ssamjang, a slice of raw garlic, a bit of rinsed kimchi — pure happiness. Add a shot of soju to cut through the richness, and you’ve got the perfect bite.

As we kept eating, sweet potato tempura and grilled fish arrived. The sweet potato was delightful, and we lucked out — instead of the usual grilled herring, we got yellowtail head. Tender, flavorful, excellent.

After a bottle or two of soju and plenty of life updates, we ordered maeuntang (spicy fish stew) to finish. Usually around 5,000 won at hoe restaurants, it’s made from the fish bones, radish, crown daisy, and spicy seasoning. The kick is perfect after all that rich hoe. Adding ramyeon noodles is also highly recommended.

Two and a half hours flew by. With people still waiting, our time was up, so we settled the bill and left.

If someone asked me what to eat in Korea, I’d enthusiastically recommend a hoe restaurant — especially bangeo-hoe in winter. But first, I’d ask: “Do you actually eat raw fish?”

If you’ve never had hoe, or if you’re not comfortable with that springy-chewy-soft texture, I’d hesitate to recommend it. Hoe restaurants are essentially all-fish establishments, so there’s not much else to fall back on if it’s not your thing.

Yellowtail Hoe Restaurant List

• Honggildong Hoesusean (Jungnang-gu)
• Namhae Bada Macha (Seongbuk-gu )
• Uri Bada Susan (Mapo-gu)
• Daechan Hoetjip (Jongno-gu)
• Daegwangeo Hoejip (Gangbuk-gu)
• Uri Hoe Pocha (Dongjak-gu)
• Baegildo (Gwangjin-gu)
• Jamae Susan (Gangnam-gu)

Where to Eat: Noryangjin Fish Market / Garak Market

For the biggest seafood markets in Seoul, there’s Noryangjin and Garak. Both are massive, offering an incredible variety of seafood. If it swims, they probably have it — fresh and alive. Koreans love visiting these places too.

Things have improved over the years, but being traditional markets, some light soliciting still exists. There’s also lingering skepticism about price manipulation — stories of vendors weighing fish with water in the bag or pressing on the scale. Because of this, I personally prefer places with fixed prices.

Currently, the most famous vendor at Noryangjin is Hyungje Sanghoe, but I usually go to Dokdo Susan (stalls 002-004). You can order online for pickup with no waiting, or use the kiosk on-site with staff assistance.

On my recent visit to pick up yellowtail, I noticed Dokdo Chobap next door selling pre-made sushi lunch boxes — 12 assorted pieces for around 22,000 won. Seemed like solid value, though I didn’t try it since I had other plans. Even just looking at it, the quality appeared quite good.

The market’s real advantage is variety. Just wandering around is entertaining — so many fascinating things to see. Beyond hoe, you can pick up shrimp, crab, clams, live octopus, raw oysters, whatever catches your eye. Just know that fish market prices aren’t necessarily cheap, so do your research beforehand.

Once you’ve bought your fish, where do you eat it? I always take mine home, but if that’s not an option, head upstairs where restaurants will prepare your purchase. Tell the vendor you’re eating there, and they’ll direct you to a partner restaurant. Or pick one yourself. Hand over your bag of fish, and they’ll slice, cook, or prepare it however you want — hoe, grilled, steamed, stir-fried, soup — for a seating and preparation fee. Think ahead about how you want to enjoy your seafood.

If someone in your group doesn’t eat seafood, Garak Market might be better than Noryangjin. Garak handles both seafood and meat, so restaurants there can accommodate mixed preferences.

I bought a mini portion of yellowtail hoe (about 1.5 servings, 53,000 won) from Dokdo Susean plus some tuna belly from a second-floor vendor. The mini size meant fewer cuts, but the taste was excellent. Unlike popular restaurants with mandatory waits, the market has no lines, endless options, and plenty to explore — a worthwhile experience for tourists too.

Noryangjin Fish Market List

• Dokdo Susan (stalls 002-004)
• Son Seonjang (stalls 017-019)
• Jeonla Sanghoe (stalls 159-161)
• Hyeongje Sanghoe (stalls 168-172)
• Ilseong Susan (stalls 007-009)

Where to Eat: Korean-style-pubs Serving Seafood

If committing to a full hoe restaurant feels risky — maybe you’re not sure about raw fish, or someone in your group can’t eat seafood — consider a Korean pub or Japanese-style izakaya that serves a variety of dishes.

Being a full-service restaurant, there are fallback options if hoe isn’t working out. The atmosphere is usually nice for lingering, but expect higher prices for smaller portions, and alcohol orders are typically required. Reservations might be necessary given the limited seating.

Recently, searching for a bangeo-hoe spot near a friend’s office, I found Sujokgwan — a Korean-style pub. Despite the name meaning “aquarium,” they have more than seafood: flatfish and tuna hoe, abalone, sea squirt, live octopus, triploid oysters, steamed clams, and octopus, alongside Korean meat dishes like bossam (pork wraps) and LA galbi (short ribs). The bangeo-hoe(58,000 won) was excellent and my first of the season. For a foreign friend’s first Korea visit, somewhere like this might be the safer introduction.

Seafood Restaurant List

• Soo jok gwan (Gangnam-gu)
• Baboseom (Yongsan-gu)
• Badadang (Seocho-gu)

Ready to Try Winter Bangeo-Hoe in Korea?

Somehow, bangeo-hoe became my most-eaten dining-out dish this winter. I know that sushi and sashimi abroad often differs from what you get in Japan or Korea, so I can’t push this as a must-try for everyone. But if you’re comfortable with raw fish — that soft, bouncy, chewy texture — then Korea’s winter delicacy, winter yellowtail, deserves a spot on your list.

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Reception & Check-In: First Impressions

Walking from the jetty to the reception, my first impression of Cora Cora was surprisingly casual. From the logo featuring “It’s Freedom Time” to the colors and decorations throughout the lobby, everything felt bright, warm, and approachable rather than luxurious or sleek.

At the lobby, we received a welcome drink of sparkling wine while completing check-in with our assigned butler. Our butler was Aju, an incredibly professional staff member. He asked about our departure flight schedule, any food allergies, exchanged WhatsApp contacts for any needs during our stay, and showed us how to make restaurant and excursion reservations through the Cora Cora app. He had already made restaurant reservations for us, with the flexibility to change anytime. Thanks to Aju, we experienced zero inconvenience throughout our stay.

One side of the lobby features a pool table, foosball table, and ping pong table. Initially, I thought it was odd to have these right in the lobby where people constantly pass through. But by the end of our stay, I didn’t think twice about it—playing games with that stunning lagoon as a backdrop just felt wonderful.

Our family particularly loved the sofa area near the lobby entrance. A large tree creates perfect shade, keeping the space surprisingly cool even under the Maldivian sun. This spot remains the most iconic image of Cora Cora in my mind. The shaded sand stays cool, and sitting barefoot on that soft sand while feeling the gentle breeze brings such peace—with the bonus of an unreal lagoon view.

Our son would play in the sand while my husband and I grabbed coffee from My Coffee café right next door, spending time gazing at the sea. Sitting there, all the stress and busyness of life back in Korea would melt away, and my mind would become as clear as the lagoon’s waters.

Cora Cora Maldives Lagoon Villa Review

When researching Maldives resorts, I knew that if the price was the same, I absolutely wanted to stay in a Maldives lagoon villa. I’d never experienced staying in an overwater room before and was incredibly curious about it

After nearly 24 hours of travel, we finally entered our lagoon villa. There are two lines of lagoon villas—one facing sunset, and one with a wider lagoon view. I’d heard that the sunset line’s rooms are visible from the central beach sunset point, so I requested the lagoon-facing line for privacy, and the request was granted. While Cora Cora isn’t specifically famous for its lagoon, the clear waters spread out beautifully before us.

The room has a bed and sofa bed, comfortable enough for three. The terrace accessible from the bedroom features sunbeds, a table, and a net hammock. Personally, I found such peace sitting on the shaded sunbed gazing at the lagoon. You can enter the water directly from the lagoon villa, and while the depth allows adults to stand, the water isn’t as calm as it looks—too risky for young children. So only my husband went swimming from the room while my son and I stayed out.

The minibar includes one small bottle each of sparkling, red, and white wine, plus beer, various drinks, and snacks—all complimentary with daily refills. Traveling with a child means we couldn’t spend long hours at bars or restaurants, so the free minibar refills were wonderful. They also provide tumblers that you can fill with coffee from My Coffee café to enjoy in your room or outdoors—incredibly useful.

The Cora Cora eco-bag and flip-flops are yours to keep. I carried the bag everywhere—to the pool, beach, restaurants—and still use it back home. The gradient colors are gorgeous. Amenities include single-use items, while hand soap, shampoo, conditioner, and body wash come in full-sized bottles. The shampoo and conditioner left my hair a bit stiff, so I used products I’d brought from home.

The bathroom has an open wall allowing you to see the lagoon from the bathtub. A net hammock between the tub and the view partially obstructs it, but it adds character. Since both the bathroom and terrace have net hammocks, we never used the bathroom one—except for drying swimsuits!

Many Maldives resorts have spacious rooms even at base level, but Cora Cora’s base rooms are smaller than average. I worried it might feel cramped, but while not generously spacious, it wasn’t uncomfortably small either—plenty of room for three. The wide-open outdoor view prevents any feeling of confinement. Beach villas offer more space since the sandy area in front becomes part of your room, but beach villas can have bugs and more mosquitoes. If I return to Cora Cora, I’d choose a lagoon villa again!

Cora Cora Maldives All-Inclusive Dining: Complete Restaurant Guide

Cora Cora has four restaurants and one café: Tazaa (main restaurant for breakfast, lunch, and occasional dinner buffets), Aquapazza (Italian, lunch and dinner), Teien (Japanese, dinner only), Ginger Moon (Asian, dinner only), and My Coffee (coffee and gelato).

Tazaa: Main Restaurant

Breakfast at Cora Cora is only available at Tazaa. The buffet includes various breads, Indian-style hot foods, cereals, salads, fruits, sausages, a self-serve noodle station, and a cooking station for eggs, crepes, and pancakes. While well-stocked with variety, something felt lacking to me. Despite the many options, not much appealed to me.

My biggest disappointments: no cheese for bread, and the Asian noodle soup smelled amazing but tasted like nothing—a few spoonfuls of chicken stock and salt would’ve fixed it! I tried every day to find a satisfying breakfast combination but never succeeded. Most buffet items stay the same with rotating hot dishes. My husband loved the chili con carne, hummus with pita bread, paratha, and beef stroganoff—often overeating. I preferred the cooking station’s eggs and pancakes. Our picky son mainly ate bread with strawberry jam or eggs Benedict.

While breakfast is buffet-style, lunch operates à la carte. We ordered salad, burger, calamari, and pork ribs, with fish and basmati rice for our son. Maybe because he was active and hungry, he ate well—scooping up rice enthusiastically, then announcing “Mmm, chicken is delicious!” while eating fish.

Everything we ordered was delicious. The burger had been praised in blogs I’d researched, and it delivered. The calamari was tender and tasty, and the ribs were reliable as always—we cleaned our plates.

Cora Cora’s desserts are generally delicious but quite sweet. Koreans often praise desserts as “not too sweet,” preferring moderate sweetness over intense sugar bombs. Cora Cora’s desserts lean toward intensely sweet, blood-sugar-spiking territory. Delicious, but too sweet for me to finish.

Tazaa hosts themed dinner buffets on specific days. During my visit, Thursday featured Spice Route Night. Perhaps due to Maldives’ proximity to India (or theories that indigenous Maldivians descended from Indians), the menu heavily featured curries and spice-based dishes. Being exhausted from arrival killed my appetite that first night, so I didn’t eat much, but my husband enjoyed the variety of meats served with pita bread and paratha.

Sunday featured Fisherman’s Catch BBQ, a seafood-focused buffet. Since Teien and Ginger Moon were closed that night, it seemed like every resort guest gathered there. The menu included sushi (also available at Teien), shrimp, crab, lobster, and various grilled shellfish. I loved the grilled lobster best and kept going back for more—perfectly prepared for easy eating. My husband, who dislikes seafood and prefers meat, didn’t have as many options, but I was thoroughly satisfied.

Tazaa handles breakfast, lunch, and dinner, and while breakfast was underwhelming, lunch items were quite good, and the dinner buffets were solid. They had live performances during dinner with talented singers creating great atmosphere.

One downside: while mosquitoes were barely noticeable at the lagoon villa, Tazaa was mosquito central. My son, who’s allergic to mosquito bites, suffered despite mosquito spray—apparently Maldivian mosquitoes are different. Also, the water glasses seemed to have a slight odor, possibly from poorly maintained drying towels.

If you stay at Cora Cora, you’ll eat at Tazaa most often. For seafood lovers, I highly recommend Fisherman’s Catch BBQ.

Aquapazza: Italian Restaurant

Besides Tazaa, Aquapazza serves lunch. This Italian restaurant became my favorite at Cora Cora. I only had lunch here twice and never tried dinner—my biggest regret of the trip.

Over two lunches, I ordered: salad, spaghetti carbonara, pepperoni pizza, tenderloin steak one day; salad, spaghetti ai frutti di mare, chorizo risotto, and tenderloin steak another day.

Everything was above average. The carbonara was slightly under-seasoned—my only minor complaint. On our last day, eating lunch here, I deeply regretted not trying dinner. The desserts were excellent too—tiramisu paired with their signature cocktail “Bitter Lies” was fantastic.

A funny thing happened both times we ate at Aquapazza. After morning swimming, we’d come for lunch, and our exhausted son would start dozing around the time bread arrived, then fall asleep sitting up—both visits! Initially panicked (we’d just ordered! What do we do? There’s nowhere to lay him down!), we caught a staff member’s attention. They pushed two chairs together and laid out towels to create an instant mini-bed. I was so grateful.

Our son napped beside us throughout lunch, giving us—miraculously—the only peaceful meal of our entire Maldives trip including flights and airport lounges. Perhaps that’s why Aquapazza remains my most satisfying Cora Cora dining experience.

Teien: Japanese Restaurant

Teien is the Japanese restaurant connected to Tazaa’s interior. Interestingly, many Maldives resorts have Japanese restaurants. Is Japanese food really that globally popular?

Japanese cuisine is quite common in Korea, and having traveled to Japan multiple times (Korea and Japan are close), I know that Western interpretations of Japanese food differ significantly from authentic versions—like teriyaki sauce in teppanyaki or non-seafood sushi rolls. I was curious about Maldivian Japanese food… but honestly, Teien was my least favorite of the four restaurants.

The menu includes miso soup, ramen, tempura udon, meat soba, various skewers, sushi, sashimi, and rolls. We ordered broadly, skipping only skewers and rolls, with sake to pair.

The appetizers—seaweed salad and edamame—were quite good. The tangy seaweed salad awakened my appetite. Unfortunately, what followed disappointed. The soba and udon shared identical broth—disappointing—and the udon noodles weren’t actually udon noodles, which was the saddest part. Udon is one of my son’s comfort foods; I’d planned to feed him udon for dinner, but it wasn’t the udon he knows. He doesn’t like thin noodles, so he refused it. Fortunately, there was avocado—another favorite—so he had a decent meal with avocado sushi.

For the main event — sushi and sashimi — freshness and texture matter more than anything. Fish from cold waters have firm, chewy flesh, while warm-water fish tend to be soft. Obviously, Maldivian sushi can’t match the real thing. Even within Japan, Hokkaido sushi quality far exceeds Okinawa’s due to water temperature differences. Knowing Maldivian waters are warm, I expected softer textures. Perhaps my lowered expectations helped—it was better than anticipated. For the Maldives, not bad.

Then came the skewers. I figured grilling skewered meat would be simpler than sushi and ordered some… Unfortunately, the meat was so tough and salty it was hard to eat. Even the mushrooms were tough—strange. The Maldives being predominantly Muslim means pork isn’t commonly consumed, which might explain why the pork skewer was especially tough. We couldn’t finish the skewers, and by then our son was sleepy, so we got chicken karaage to-go… It was so salty (pickled in salt?) that we couldn’t eat it either.

Teien might satisfy those accustomed to Westernized Japanese food, but for anyone familiar with authentic Japanese cuisine, it’s hard to recommend. Though skewer quality varies greatly depending on who’s cooking—your mileage may vary.

Ginger Moon: Asian Restaurant

Ginger Moon is an Asian dining restaurant, like Teien operating only for dinner. It features an open kitchen where I could see the head chef directing assistants—the main chef appeared to be Thai. The menu focuses primarily on Thai food with Indonesian and Malaysian options. There were also Korean dishes, but reviews warned the taste differs significantly from authentic Korean food, so I trusted the chef and ordered Thai dishes.

We ordered Cumi Cumi Bakar, Labb Tuna, Pad Thai, Tom Yum Goong, and Mango Sticky Rice. The Labb Tuna featured fresh tuna (not unusual) with an interesting mint note—fine for me but not great for my husband who can’t handle fishy flavors. Cumi Cumi Bakar (grilled squid) was savory and tender, perfect with beer. The tom yum goong and pad thai tasted nearly identical to what I’d had in Bangkok—delicious. The menu also had Som Tam, Laksa, and Satay that I love, but I was too full to try them. If I return to Cora Cora, I’d probably skip Teien and visit Ginger Moon and Aquapazza more often.

My personal restaurant ranking: Aquapazza = Ginger Moon > Tazaa > Teien. Though I didn’t try Aquapazza dinner, lunch was satisfying enough that dinner should be good too. If you enjoyed food in Bangkok or Bali, definitely visit Ginger Moon. And Tazaa’s Fisherman’s Catch BBQ is highly recommended.

My Coffee: Café Review

My Coffee café sits right next to the lobby, operating from morning until night. We’d stop by for coffee throughout the day, or fill our room’s tumbler before heading back after breakfast. Beyond coffee, they offer various drinks—and best of all, multiple flavors of gelato and sorbet.

Having ice cream available anytime—what child wouldn’t love that? My son visited daily. Day one: strawberry. Day two: stracciatella—he loved it so much he ordered it exclusively until our last day. Many resorts offer dessert ice cream after meals, but few have cafés serving ice cream all day. My Coffee was probably our most-visited spot at Cora Cora.

The True Meaning of “Maldives All Inclusive”

Most Maldives all inclusive plans limit restaurant orders to 1 appetizer, 1 main, and 1 dessert per person per meal. Cora Cora has no such limits—order whatever you want. Coffee and ice cream are available anytime. The café doesn’t even check room numbers. I absolutely loved this system, and it contributed enormously to our relaxing Maldives vacation.

After experiencing true all-inclusive at Cora Cora, if I ever research Maldives resorts again, I’ll either return here or only consider resorts with similar “Unlimited AI” plans (even that term sounds a bit funny, doesn’t it?).

Swimming Pools: Sound Pool & Main Pool Construction

An unexpected variable during our visit was pool construction. About a month before departure, I learned that both pools would undergo sequential renovation, with the main pool under construction during our stay. The main pool is 1.5-2m deep for adults, while the sound pool is about 1-1.2m—a shallow pool. Since one had to be under construction, having the shallower pool available worked better for playing with our son.

The two pools are connected, and the Sound Pool is on the smaller side. But with few swimmers during our visit, it was pleasant enough for playing with a child. The pool floor tiles have a holographic coating that sparkles like jewels in the sunlight—beautiful. However, the Sound Pool’s tiles were quite cracked, looking potentially dangerous.

Years ago, a Korean guest at another Maldives resort was cut badly by broken pool tiles, and that story circulated in Korean communities for years—the pool clearly needed renovation. The cabana cushions around the Sound Pool also looked unwashed for quite some time. I hoped these would be replaced during the renovation.

On our departure day, walking to Tazaa for breakfast, I noticed the main pool’s tile replacement was complete with some water already in it. Seeing it uncovered for the first time, it was much larger and deeper than the Sound Pool—looked fun. My husband joked, “Guess we need to come back to use that pool.” I genuinely want to return!

Spending time at the pool, ordering cocktails or beer from adjacent Aquapazza, enjoying the sparkling water during the day and colorful sunset reflections in the evening—that’s a perfect vacation.

House Reef Snorkeling Experience

On the opposite side from our lagoon villa sit the beach villas, with the best house reef at the very end. The dark patches visible within the clear lagoon are coral areas where you can see diverse fish. Since my son desperately wanted to play in the ocean, we brought him in—but the current was stronger than expected for a 3-year-old, and he got scared. After that, he only played in the pool.

I’d looked forward to snorkeling in the Maldives, so I specifically chose a resort balancing lagoon beauty with underwater environment. I’d heard Cora Cora Maldives’s snorkeling point was decent and had high expectations. The current made visibility less than crystal clear, and honestly, the underwater environment wasn’t exceptionally remarkable.

Coral bleaching was evident, and the colorful coral reef I’d hoped for wasn’t there. Still, I saw diverse, colorful fish: Surgeon fish, Snapper, Parrot fish, Trigger fish, Jack fish, Damsel, Rabbit fish, Butterfly fish, Wrasse and more. However, I didn’t spot the baby sharks, rays, or turtles supposedly common at Maldives resorts. I’d hoped to see sharks and rays swimming into the lagoon or beach area—that was somewhat disappointing.

The house reef length felt moderately long—one round trip took about an hour. That single hour of snorkeling gave me a perfect sunburn on my back. I knew the Maldivian sun was intense and brought well-researched famous sunscreen, but even that couldn’t protect me for one hour. The inflammation from the sunburn caused severe shoulder pain. Thankfully, I’d brought sunburn medication and aloe soothing gel purchased in Bali, which helped. For Maldives trips: bring good sunscreen!

Excursions: Snorkeling Extravaganza & Sunset Cruise

When I first decided on the Maldives, I imagined incredible underwater environments and couldn’t wait to snorkel. But resorts famous for great underwater environments often had unattractive lagoons, kids clubs starting at age 4, disappointing restaurants, or prices too high. I eventually learned that resorts with both great underwater environments and beautiful lagoons are rare, so I decided to book snorkeling excursions.

Cora Cora Maldives offers various excursions. I wanted to try Manta Quest, Turtle Quest, Snorkeling Extra Vaganza, and Snorkeling Coral Garden. Manta Quest runs only Tuesdays—we checked out Monday, so impossible. Turtle Quest and Coral Tour had no available spots—I should have checked immediately at check-in! The only available excursion during our stay was Extra Vaganza, which visits two snorkeling spots. Not my first choice, but I wanted to snorkel, so I booked it. We sent our son to the kids club and joined the tour.

I’d recently earned my AIDA Level 2 freediving certification and brought long fins, but for safety reasons, life jackets were mandatory—no diving allowed, just snorkeling. Both spots had strong currents but weren’t too deep, with abundant coral and diverse fish—plenty to see. I’d hoped for more than just fish—sharks, rays, turtles—but didn’t spot any. Still, resort excursions have limited participants (guests only), making for a comfortable snorkeling environment.

Another excursion was the Sunset Cruise—departing an hour before sunset for a boat tour around nearby waters. This complimentary excursion is offered to all guests staying 4+ nights.

The lower deck was nearly full. When the boat anchored, passengers could go upstairs to enjoy the view with complimentary sparkling wine. Most people headed up, so our family stayed comfortably on the lower deck with our young son. The captain kindly showed our son the control room—a special experience. The sunset itself was partially blocked by large clouds—somewhat disappointing—but spending an hour on a boat enjoying the sea breeze was special enough.

Cora Kids Club: The Highlight of Our Maldives Vacation

The biggest reason I chose Cora Cora Maldives among many candidates was TripAdvisor’s excellent kids club reviews. Traveling to the Maldives for vacation while wanting to do house reef snorkeling and snorkeling tours is impossible with a toddler in tow—parents can’t leave a young child alone. Whether our son could adapt to the kids club would determine our vacation quality. So I researched meticulously before choosing this resort.

My biggest worry: our son had just turned 3, communicating well in Korean but knowing only “Hello,” “Yes,” and “No” in English—nothing else. Could he adapt to an unfamiliar environment without being able to communicate? I’d read reviews of Bali resorts requiring parents to stay if children couldn’t communicate with staff. Would the Maldives be the same?

On his first kids club day, he needed some adjustment time, but ultimately found it satisfying. That night at bedtime, I asked what was most fun that day—”Kids club,” he answered. Would he go again tomorrow? “Yes!” Kids club adaptation: successful.

Cora Kids offers various hourly activities and crafts, plus plenty of toys—though the toys seem more suited to toddlers while activities fit preschool to early elementary ages. Being young, my son mostly played with toys, did sand play in the backyard, or played in the kiddie pool. The kids club pool was perfect depth for him, so I sent him there in his swimsuit from the start. After our house reef snorkeling, we stopped by to check on him—there he was, happily splashing in the water like a fish.

The next day, we sent him to kids club after breakfast and went on the Extra Vaganza snorkeling tour. Returning to the resort, I spotted kids club staff Sadha and Siba walking with our son toward the beach in front of the lobby. He was in his swimsuit, but they wore regular clothes—getting their pants soaked in seawater while playing with him. They didn’t care. Watching them prioritize his fun over their own comfort moved me deeply. If it were me, I’d probably have said “Mommy can’t go in, my pants will get wet.” Seeing them play with him his way, I understood why TripAdvisor highlights Cora Cora’s kids club.

Later, Siba sent us photos taken during his time at kids club. In every single photo, his face beamed with pure happiness. The kids club staff gave us time away from parenting to enjoy our Maldives vacation while giving our son happy memories—I’m deeply grateful to Sadha and Siba.

More to Explore: Museum, Fitness Center & Spa

The lobby houses a small museum about Maldivian history. According to the displays, early Maldivian settlers were likely shipwrecked sailors or fishermen. The indigenous Giraavaru people are believed to be connected to Tamil descendants from India, with some early settlers possibly from the Indus civilization (North India).

Monsoon winds determined travel timing—sailors crossing the Indian Ocean had to stay with Maldivian locals until winds changed. These interactions left behind objects like “Dutch Onions” (a type of glass bottle) and formed today’s diverse Maldivian communities.

Over thousands of years, Indian Ocean trade flourished, bringing outsiders whose interactions created modern Maldivian society. Travelers brought specialized knowledge, creating “cultural fusion” as exotic items were absorbed and transformed into everyday tools.

This historical background of “confluence of cultures”—transformed and transforming over a thousand years—has become today’s Maldives. Fascinating content.

Since Maldives travel typically means going straight from airport to resort and back again, there’s little opportunity to experience local culture. Having this glimpse into Maldivian history and artifacts was wonderful.

Maldivians look remarkably similar to Indians but speak English with completely different accents—the museum content helped explain this curious observation.

Near the beach villas sits an archaeological area with traditional Maldivian houses used until relatively recently, a mosque site, and a traditional “bathhouse” with stagnant water that I suspected was breeding ground for the island’s many mosquitoes. My son has mosquito allergies; despite constantly applying mosquito spray, he (and I) got bitten relentlessly. I grew to resent that bathhouse.

There’s also a watchtower-like structure. I climbed it imagining a Moana-esque panoramic ocean view… but only saw jungle and a distant strip of deep blue Indian Ocean.

The fitness center I peeked into once but never used seemed lightly trafficked. Not huge but adequately equipped. Running on a treadmill facing the lagoon would be nice—the view wasn’t quite that, but the natural lighting was excellent.

The spa I never visited. Being in the Maldives, a spa experience might seem fitting, but I’ve rarely found hotel massages satisfying for the price. We spent our time watching the lagoon and swimming, only exploring the resort’s various spaces on our last day—even these small discoveries became memorable moments.

Checkout & Lagoon Hub: Saying Goodbye to Cora Cora Maldives

Our far-too-short 4-night maldives vacation ended, and departure time arrived. With a 1:15 PM Malé-Singapore flight (SQ431), Aju said we needed the first seaplane. Bags packed by 8 AM for staff pickup, then to the lobby by 8:30. Time to leave already… just sad.

After our last slightly-disappointing Tazaa breakfast and finishing packing, we said goodbye to our lagoon villa 232 and headed to the lobby for checkout.

After checkout, you can write a wish on a ribbon to hang on the tree near the lobby. We wrote hoping for good fortune so we could return to Cora Cora Maldives.

Checkout complete, with time before the seaplane, we used My Coffee (still accessible post-checkout) for one last ice cream with our son, soothing the goodbye blues.

The seaplane dock has a waiting lounge called Lagoon Hub. Over drinks, we said our final goodbye to Aju. When I said it was sad to leave, he suggested staying two weeks next time. I wish I could! I need to work hard and earn more money.

During our stay, I’d posted on Instagram. Coincidentally, my husband’s friend messaged saying he’d be honeymooning at Cora Cora the following week! I mentioned this to Aju, and he ended up as that friend’s butler too. We later heard the friend also had a wonderful time at Cora Cora thanks to Aju’s excellent care.

Soon the seaplane arrived, and departing for Malé Airport ended our time at Cora Cora Maldives. Having one last coffee at Malé Airport, worrying about the long journey home while reflecting on our incredibly happy vacation , I firmly resolved: I must return to the Maldives.

Final Verdict: Is Cora Cora Maldives Worth It?

Our 4 nights at Cora Cora felt far too short—but throughout our stay, we ate without worry or calculation thanks to the all-inclusive system. Butler Aju ensured our comfort throughout. Cora Kids staff Sadha and Siba gave our young son unforgettable happy moments. And every staff member was wonderfully friendly. All these elements combined to show us what Cora Cora’s slogan “It’s Freedom Time!” truly means—it was a wonderful vacation and wedding anniversary.

Some drawbacks exist: occasional cleanliness issues, somewhat disappointing meals. Those seeking luxury or high-end resort service might not find Cora Cora ideal. But for those seeking a comfortable (if not glamorous) family vacation at a Maldives resort, I recommend considering Cora Cora Maldives.

Lastly, I recalled a conversation with the manager at Munduk Moding Plantation in Bali. He’d said Bali has countless resorts, and theirs isn’t particularly exceptional in facilities, plus it’s in a hard-to-reach location—they know it’s difficult for guests to choose them and travel there. So they want every guest who does visit to be as comfortable as possible, with all staff striving toward that goal. Cora Cora Maldives gave me a similar feeling—everyone working to help guests have the perfect vacation.

Since Cora Cora Maldives was my first Maldives resort, I have nothing to compare it to. It may fall short for some travelers. But for me, it was the best Maldives resort and the best anniversary vacation we’ve ever had.

Klook.com

Finding the Perfect Maldives Resort for Us: Welcome to “Maldives University”

In Korea, most people visit the Maldives only once in their lifetime—usually for their honeymoon. This “once in a lifetime” perception means that those who decide on the Maldives for their honeymoon spend considerable time researching to find the perfect resort within their budget. In Korea, we jokingly call this intensive research phase “enrolling in Maldives University.”

I went through the same process. As a family traveler among all the newlywed couples at various travel agencies, I attended consultations and looked at resort recommendations. The prices seemed to fit my budget, but when I searched for reviews, something always felt off. The more resorts I looked at, the more appealing options I discovered, and my standards kept rising while my budget remained fixed. I needed to establish clearer criteria.

My resort requirements:

• 2 adults + 1 child (age 3, free accommodation)
• Maldives all inclusive(food and beverages included)
• Decent food quality with meat options
• Good enough underwater environment for snorkeling
• Minibar refills (alcohol included would be a bonus)
• Kids club accepting 3-year-olds
• Accessible by both speedboat and seaplane (preferring speedboat if all else equal)

With these criteria set, my husband and I narrowed down our final five candidates: Cora Cora Maldives, Robinson Noonu, Anantara Dhigu, Kagi, and Dhigali.

Even after carefully selecting these favorites, each had clear pros and cons. After much deliberation, we chose Cora Cora Maldives. The room size was the smallest among our candidates, but the family-friendly atmosphere and kids club made up for it.
When I was researching the perfect place for a Maldives vacation with a toddler, Cora Cora’s family-friendly approach kept coming up. The deciding factor? TripAdvisor reviews raved about its kids club.

When I searched Maldives resorts on TripAdvisor, recurring keywords appeared in the reviews. Only three resorts had “kids club” as a highlighted keyword: Cora Cora Maldives, Robinson Noonu, and Anantara Dhigu. Anantara Dhigu only accepts children from age 4, so that was out. Robinson Noonu also had excellent kids club reviews, but my budget wouldn’t cover an overwater villa there. Cora Cora Maldives offered overwater villas within my budget—decision made!

This process might sound simple, but between visiting multiple travel agencies, researching countless Maldives resorts, and reading reviews, it took nearly two months to make the final choice. Since this was my first Maldives vacation, I could only hope my decision wouldn’t lead to regret.

The Maldives: Far, Far Away

The day of our 5th anniversary trip finally arrived. Since COVID, direct flights from Korea to the Maldives no longer exist, so a layover is mandatory. I chose to transit through Singapore, boarding Singapore Airlines SQ605, departing from Incheon Airport at midnight. I had hoped for some empty seats nearby so we could stretch out, but the flight was completely full.

We’d traveled several times since our son was born, but overnight flights had been rare. I was worried, but our little one found a comfortable position and slept soundly throughout the six-hour flight. We landed at Singapore Changi Airport at 5 AM—an ungodly hour.

With a 5-hour layover before our Malé connection, I had hoped to explore Jewel Changi. But at 5 AM, absolutely nothing was open. Even Jewel’s signature waterfall wasn’t running. We gave up on sightseeing and spent our time at the SATS Lounge in Terminal 2.

A 5-hour layover with a toddler is quite long. Without the lounge, surviving dawn hours at the airport would have been brutal. We managed by letting him watch cartoons on a tablet—a rare treat we don’t usually allow. I attempted the self-serve laksa at the lounge, though nothing compares to the one I had at Lau Pa Sat years ago. I’ve heard Terminal 3’s SATS Lounge is better, so if you have a long layover like we did, consider heading there instead.

After what felt like an eternity, we boarded the 10 AM Singapore-Malé flight (SQ432). The crowd was incredibly diverse—people from all over the world. Naturally, also completely full. The four-hour flight to Malé passed with our son sleeping again, exhausted from his 5 AM wake-up. I wished I could lie down too.

Six hours of flying, four more hours of flying, plus five hours of layover waiting. And we still hadn’t reached Malé. My exhaustion was accumulating, and landing at Malé Airport wasn’t even the end.

Stepping outside the airport, countless people held signs with resort names. That’s when it hit me—this really is the land of resorts. I quickly spotted the Cora Cora staff among them. After a luggage weight check (seaplanes have strict limits), everything was handled by the staff. This is where Maldives resort service truly begins.

Seaplanes don’t depart on a fixed schedule like taxis, so we waited in a lounge at the seaplane terminal. A short 5-minute bus ride took us there, and stepping outside, I was greeted by the Maldives sea. Usually, harbor waters are murky everywhere, but here—even at the harbor—the water was stunningly beautiful.

The lounge offered drinks and pastries. Our son, finally alert after sleeping through both flights, grabbed a muffin and croissant. I was too exhausted to care about food—I just wanted to board the seaplane, get to the resort, and collapse.

I’d heard that seaplane waits could stretch to 1-2 hours if they needed more passengers, but we were lucky. Many guests were heading to Cora Cora, so we departed after only about 10 minutes. The seaplane was exactly as expected: tiny, no air conditioning, uncomfortably hot, and loud enough to require the earplugs they handed out.

The flight from Malé to Cora Cora took about 50 minutes. Since every passenger was going to Cora Cora, we didn’t need to stop at other resorts. Watching the various islands and resorts from above made time pass surprisingly quickly.

Final tally to reach Cora Cora Maldives:

When you arrive at the resort, staff greet you with welcome necklaces and celebratory drum beats. I’d anticipated this moment would feel magical, but in reality, I just wanted to check in and lie down immediately. The journey to a Maldives resort is truly long and grueling. The silver lining? Our son handled this marathon without major complaints.

Living in Singapore would mean reaching the Maldives in just 4 hours without layovers. Singapore’s proximity to Bali, Bangkok, and other Southeast Asian destinations suddenly seemed incredibly valuable.

Stepping off the seaplane, we met Aju, our butler. Walking toward the lobby, my first impression of Cora Cora was surprisingly casual. From the logo and fonts to the building colors and decorations, every detail reflected the resort’s vibe. The “It’s Freedom Time” slogan, the bright colors, and the welcoming logo all conveyed a friendly, approachable atmosphere.

During check-in, Aju shared the WhatsApp contact for any needs and introduced the Cora Cora app for reservations. After a brief resort tour, we headed to our water villa.

Aju mentioned a restaurant was still open if we wanted lunch. No, no… just get me to the room! Our villa was number 232, decorated with a painting of a child on a swing. Each room has unique artwork. Initially, I thought the paintings looked a bit tacky and that removing them would make the space cleaner. But they grew on me. I hadn’t thought much of it, but my 3-year-old used that painting to identify our room.

After Aju’s room orientation, I wanted to film one of those room tour videos everyone makes at Maldives resorts. But the moment we entered, our son started exploring everywhere, knocked over the welcome snack box, moved cushions around, and carried the trash can to different spots while I was picking up snacks. I gave up on filming immediately. This is what traveling with a child means.

Our son had slept through the flights, so while I was finally feeling human again, he was fully charged and demanding swimming and sand play. Summoning my remaining energy, I played with him at the pool. Aju had reserved dinner at the main restaurant Taaza for Spice Route Night—apparently a Thursday buffet. But I was too exhausted to have an appetite, so our first dinner in the Maldives was modest. If you’re completely drained on arrival day, skip the buffet and opt for à la carte.

That first day was consumed by travel, and I collapsed from complete energy depletion.

This Is What “True maldives all inclusive” Means: Eat Whatever You Want!

After a deep sleep, I woke up feeling refreshed and could finally enjoy Cora Cora properly from day two. The daily rhythm: wake up, have breakfast, swim, have lunch, sip coffee while watching the sea, stroll around the island or join resort excursions, then dinner—and the day is basically over. The most repetitive activity during a resort stay is probably eating.

We chose all-inclusive because we have a child, because my husband and I both love eating and drinking, and because we didn’t want to worry about costs in expensive Maldives. If you research Maldives resorts, you’ll find many offer all-inclusive packages, but typically these limit you to one appetizer, one main, and one dessert per person per meal, with extra charges for certain menu items.

That’s why some resorts like Cora Cora offer “Unlimited All-Inclusive.” Since all guests automatically receive all-inclusive, there’s no need to track whether your plan includes lunch, dinner, or alcohol. Just go to any restaurant at mealtime and order whatever you want, with no limits on dishes. This felt like “true all-inclusive” to me.

People generally eat similar amounts anyway, so unlimited menus don’t differ dramatically from limited ones in practice. But psychologically? Huge difference. Some resorts charge extra for specific items—understandable for something like teppanyaki, but it makes you wonder why they call it “all-inclusive” at all.

maldives all inclusive resorts I researched:

At Cora Cora, breakfast is a buffet at the main restaurant. Lunch is available at two restaurants. Dinner options include three restaurants plus occasional buffets at the main restaurant.

Before the trip, I wondered if I’d get tired of eating at the same resort restaurants every meal. But staying only 4 nights meant I could only try each dinner venue once (except the main restaurant). I wished I’d stayed longer to revisit my favorites.

Honestly, nothing at the breakfast buffet particularly impressed me. Breakfast was the most disappointing meal of the trip. But eating a leisurely morning meal while listening to waves—how long had it been? The morning sun wasn’t harsh, and without air conditioning, it wasn’t even hot (though the mosquitoes were absolutely relentless). It finally felt like a real vacation.

For lunch, there’s the main restaurant with diverse options and the Italian restaurant Aquapazza. Both were good, but I personally preferred Aquapazza. Taaza’s burger and calamari were quite tasty. Aquapazza’s steak was solid, and while pasta varied by dish, the risotto was delicious overall. The tiramisu was especially good—paired perfectly with Cora Cora’s signature cocktail “Bitter Sweet.”

Dinner options included Aquapazza, Ginger Moon (Thai-focused Asian cuisine), Teien (Japanese), and occasional buffets at the main restaurant. I skipped Aquapazza for dinner assuming it’d be similar to lunch, but later learned the dinner menu differs—a regret.

Ginger Moon offers Korean dishes too, but reviews warned the taste differs significantly from authentic Korean food, so I stuck to Thai dishes like tom yum and pad thai. Surprisingly exceeded expectations. If I had to pick the restaurant closest to authentic local cuisine, it’d probably be Ginger Moon.

My biggest disappointment was Teien. Being Korean, I eat Japanese food frequently since Korea and Japan are close and Japanese cuisine is common in Korea. The gap from authentic taste was too wide. I understood that sashimi texture would differ in tropical climates, but I expected at least the grilled skewers to be decent. They weren’t. The karaage was so unbearably salty it was almost inedible. If I return to Cora Cora, I probably won’t visit Teien again.

I also tried Spice Route Night buffet (Maldivian cuisine focus) and Fisherman’s Catch BBQ buffet (seafood). Spice Route Night wasn’t my style, but my husband who loves Indian food enjoyed it. Fisherman’s Catch was the opposite—I loved the grilled lobster, but my husband has a shellfish allergy and prefers meat over seafood, so it was less ideal for him.

During our four days, I’d wake up and eat, swim and eat, walk around and eat. The café next to the lobby served coffee and ice cream anytime, and we visited every single day without exception.

On typical vacations, even at resorts, you go sightseeing, research what to eat, wonder about local specialties and popular dishes, check maps, and deliberate constantly. In the Maldives, you can’t leave the resort, so you simply eat what’s available. I thought this would be a drawback, but actually, not having to think allowed me to focus entirely on relaxation. This style of vacation might be uniquely Maldivian. What I expected to be boring turned out immensely satisfying—and being able to freely order any menu item without restrictions? This must be paradise.

I Caught the “Maldives Ocean Is on Another Level” Disease

When I first started planning the Maldives trip, I naively thought: the lagoon probably looks the same as on screens, but the house reef snorkeling must reveal incredibly colorful underwater worlds, right? So I prioritized resorts with good underwater environments.

Later, I learned that resorts famous for great underwater environments actually look similar to Korea’s East Sea—not the tropical paradise I imagined. I adjusted my criteria to resorts with a good balance of both lagoon beauty and underwater life.

Upon arriving and seeing the lagoon in person… it was far more beautiful than I’d imagined. Cora Cora isn’t even famous for its lagoon, yet the water color was mesmerizing. Gradually, I fell completely under its spell.

My favorite part of each day was sitting on the sofa in front of the lobby, gazing at the glass-like emerald sea. Sitting in cool shade, thinking about nothing, watching the ocean—all worries disappeared, and my mind became as clear as the Maldivian water. If even a resort not known for its lagoon could affect me this way, what must the famous lagoon resorts look like? I became incredibly curious.

But is watching the sea all there is to do in the Maldives? Absolutely not. I found the snorkeling quite satisfying too. Of course, if you simply want to see diverse marine life and vibrant corals, there are better destinations worldwide. Underwater conditions vary by resort, but Cora Cora’s house reef didn’t show me the colorful corals I’d hoped for—though the fish variety was impressive.

The snorkeling excursion, however, delivered exactly what I wanted: vibrant corals and abundant fish. Totally satisfying. Some resorts even have baby sharks and eagle rays swimming near the beach, turtles visible from the house reef, or dolphins playing just offshore.

Beyond the house reef, you can enter the water directly from your room, but those crystal-clear waters appear clear because of white dead coral on the bottom. You won’t see many fish, and there’s honestly not much to look at underwater.

Since Maldives vacations mostly mean staying within the resort, you’ll naturally spend time at the pool too. One disappointment: during my visit, the main pool was under construction, so only the shallow sub-pool was available. But lying in a cabana, watching sunlight sparkle on the tiles, or seeing the sunset reflected in the pool—any view brought peace of mind.

And this is all-inclusive, remember? Aquapazza, attached to the pool, serves drinks and cocktails you can take with you. Being Korean, I naturally ordered a mojito first. A famous line from the Korean movie “Inside Men”—”A mojito in Maldives, please”—by actor Lee Byung-hun made it almost mandatory for Koreans to take mojito photos in the Maldives. I don’t usually love sweet cocktails, but the sweet, minty refreshment suited the Maldives atmosphere perfectly.

Throughout our stay, water was ever-present: morning swims in the ocean or pool, afternoon lagoon-gazing, pre-dinner sunset watching. I’d thought such a monotonous vacation wouldn’t suit me. But the Maldives’ isolated environment, allowing complete focus on the water’s changing colors throughout the day, proved genuinely valuable.

Since returning, I’ve been researching our next destination, but now every beach I see just makes me think: “I want to go back to the Maldives.” People say travelers catch “Maldives ocean is on another level” disease after visiting. I guess I caught it too.

A Maldives Vacation with a Toddler is An Excellent Decision – Happy Kid, Happy Parents.

The Cora Kids club was the single biggest reason our Maldives vacation with a toddler felt actually relaxing. The main reason I chose Cora Cora was TripAdvisor’s highlighting of the kids club. If our son couldn’t adapt to it, we wouldn’t be able to do snorkeling excursions or even house reef snorkeling—parents can’t exactly leave a toddler alone. His kids club adaptation was my critical mission.

At just over 3 years old, our son communicates reasonably well in Korean but knows only “Hello,” “Yes,” and “No” in English—nothing else. I worried most about whether he could adapt to an unfamiliar environment without being able to communicate. We decided to stay nearby during his first kids club visit.

About 30 minutes later, the kids club called saying he was crying. He’d bumped into something while playing and had been crying for mom and dad ever since. My heart sank—was one day too soon? Should we give up? But he seemed to like the space itself and didn’t want to leave. A staff member suggested trying the outdoor play area.

The moment he saw the sand play area, he became transfixed. Kids club adaptation attempt #2 began. The sand was incredibly effective. When we returned an hour later, he was still playing in that exact spot.

That night before bed, I asked what was the most fun that day. “Kids club,” he answered. Would he go again tomorrow? “Yes!” Adaptation: successful.

The next morning after breakfast, I asked if he wanted to go to the kids club. An eager yes. We sent him in his swimsuit, and my husband and I finally got to snorkel at the house reef. One round trip took about an hour. Passing by the kids club on our way back, we saw our son playing joyfully in the kiddie pool with staff members Sadha and Siba, like a fish in water. In just two visits, he’d completely adapted.

This let us confidently book a snorkeling excursion. The following day, we sent him to the kids club right after breakfast in his swimsuit. He walked in without any resistance, as if it were the most natural thing in the world.

After the Extra Vaganza snorkeling tour, I hurried back worrying something might have happened. I spotted him walking outside with Sadha and Siba. Where were they going? They’d taken him to the beach in front of the lobby for water play. He was in his swimsuit, but they were in regular clothes—their pants getting soaked by seawater. They didn’t care. Watching them prioritize his enjoyment over their own comfort moved me deeply.

After checkout, the kids club shared photos they’d taken of our son during his time there. Every single photo showed him beaming with pure happiness.

Was the kids club his only source of joy? Not at all. When we rode the buggy between restaurants, he loved sitting in the front seat next to the driver. The restaurant staff were all so friendly that even our usually shy son started initiating high-fives and playing around with them, treating them like favorite uncles.

Following the barefoot staff, he’d kick off his shoes the moment we reached the lobby. The soft sand everywhere became his favorite toy. The unlimited ice cream available anytime. Without question, our son enjoyed Cora Cora the most out of our entire family.

Other destinations require leaving the resort for sightseeing, sitting in strollers, or enduring boring shopping trips. The Maldives’ no-leaving-the-resort structure turned out to be absolutely perfect for our toddler. Seeing him this happy naturally made me happy too.

Conclusion: Our Maldives vacation was truly the best ever.

The Maldives is a perfect place for vacation. And Cora Cora was the most perfect vacation my husband, our son, and I have ever experienced.

What did we do? Wake up, eat, swim, eat, watch the sea, drink coffee, rest, eat… not much else. Sounds boring, right? With 24 hours in a day, what do you do with all that time?

The surprising truth: despite such a simple schedule, I was incredibly busy. So busy that I—someone who normally stays up until 1 AM—passed out exhausted by 10 PM every night.

What made this vacation at Cora Cora especially happy? Ordering any menu item without restrictions. With a child, unexpected situations arise constantly—but even if he fell asleep, we could get takeout and eat in our room. The friendly atmosphere (rather than ultra-luxurious) suited our family trip perfectly. Our butler Aju helped make our vacation special. And the kids club staff whom our son adored—Sadha and Siba.

The journey from Korea to the Maldives required enormous time and was exhausting. But after returning, I finally understood why people go to the Maldives. “I want to go back to the Maldives” became my constant refrain. Every single element was satisfying.

During our visit, the main pool was under construction, leaving only one pool usable. My husband joked, “Guess we’ll have to come back to use that pool.”

If you’re planning a Maldives trip with excessive expectations of luxury, ultra-premium service, or high-end hotel experiences, Cora Cora might not be the right fit.

Since Cora Cora was my first Maldives resort, I can’t objectively compare it to others. But for those seeking a peaceful, friendly resort atmosphere—a vacation that truly feels like vacation—especially families considering a Maldives vacation with a toddler, I wholeheartedly recommend Cora Cora Maldives.

It’s Freedom Time!